Turbosaturns.net's forums used to be the best place to find any and all
turbo-related information and experience, but they went down and disappeared
about 6 months ago.
Prior to that point, I had been reading them for
several years before I started my turbo build so I can lend a few thoughts.
with too much heat the engine block warped and is shot.
Several TSN posters have used the stock block for very high boost levels and
I have never heard of anyone warping a Saturn block. Are you sure that's
what occurred? If so, is that a heat issue? Going with an oil cooler and a
upgraded radiator in the future may be good insurance.
To buy a cheap SOHC engine for the block and rotating assembly (because
sohc pistons yeild a 8.5:1 comppression where the dohc has 9.5:1).
Yes, this is exactly the route that I took. You can read about what I did
in my website's projects section if you are interested (link is in my
signature below). BUT, going with 10psi+ with stock pistons and rods is
asking for it.
And use my DOHC heads (overhauled), intake and fuel system.
You will absolutely positively have to upgrade your fuel system. A stock
PCM / injector / fpr combo won't give you the fuel you need under boost. If
you ran that with your prior setup, I'd say running lean may be what
grenaded your motor. You ever dyno it and monitor fuel/air mixture while
under boost? That would tell you for sure.
I know the crank would have to be a 91-92 because of the crank sensor but
it i got a newer engine i would just need the pcm, right?
If your motor is apart, it's best to put the proper crankshaft in it for the
year group your car falls into. Info on engine/PCM swaps to different years
can be found in the Ultimate Swap Guide:
http://www.saturnspot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19927
8.5/7 would be much better for boosting than 9.5 but you should be using
Forged pistons, not Hypereutectic pistons for boosted engines. So you
might as well buy yourself some forged pistons that will bring your
compression down.
Yes, this is good advice.
Or you could try shoehorning a supercharged 3800 and tranny in there.
Now that is an enormous amount of work, but it would yield great results. A
guy who visits my local dragstrip did this so I know it is possible.
"Carjunky via CarKB.com"
I would pony up the cash and throw a 3800 s/c in there...
I always laugh when people use the words "throw" or "drop" when talking
about a motor swap of this nature. Those who do often have never done one,
because it is a LOT of time and expense. I went through one with a prior
car and will never use those words. Ever.
a 93 -96 needs a 93 - 96 pcm.
'96 was the first year of OBD2 and it doesn't fit in that category. So it
should be 91-92, and 93-95.
And also with the forged you would have to get the motor balanced and
theres another 250 bucks.
I wouldn't say that you have to. I had no plans to do so with my build and
very few turbo'd Saturn owners have. It's a lot of cash for very little
benefit.
I have a lead right now on a 98 sohc engine (the block is actually
stronger than all other years).
I believe it is '98 and up, and not restricted to just 1998.
Then i can use my existing fuel system...
Oooh, this makes me cringe.
But a 400 dollar low compression build sounds pretty nice rather than
going forged.
From the boost level that you've stated, plus the fact that you're building
the second motor after killing the first one, I'd strongly consider upping
the reliability by going with forged internals and upgrading the fuel
system - or you may find the third engine build coming sooner than it
should.
"Carjunky via CarKB.com"
So does anyone know how much it should cost to get a block and head milled
flat and checked for any problems?
My local shop does quick measurements for me for no charge - should not cost
much from most shops.
If my car ran with good oil pressure would you guys replace the pump
while the engine is apart?
If there is a chance that worn metal has ever gone through the pump, or your
pump/timing cover has a lot of miles, then YES - I'd replace it if it were
me.
Would you hone your own block or pay the shop?
I honed mine myself with a $25 tool and instructions I found on Hastings
website (link is on my site).
Good luck,
Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
