Wheel bearing R&R step-by-step needed!

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by shad0704, Dec 6, 2003.

  1. shad0704

    shad0704 Guest

    2000 SL1 FWD:
    1.remove hubcap
    2.crack drive shaft nut using 21mm socket w/ breaker bar
    and lug nuts w/ ground contact and brakes applied (so as to not stress CV joint)
    3.jack car, remove lug nuts-tire, brake caliper-housing, rotor
    shad0704, Dec 6, 2003
  2. shad0704

    Joe Agro Guest

    and lug nuts w/ ground contact and brakes applied (so as to not stress CV

    I don't think it is possible to stress the CV joint worse than the car does
    when you accelerate moderately... Or especially if you have a manual
    transmission and drive like I do. :)

    Joe - VROC #8013 - '86 VN750 - joe @ yunx .com - 973.571.1456 24/7

    Ask me about "The Ride" on July 31, '04:

    4 bedroom house for sale in NJ: http://GoneHome.com/62236
    Joe Agro, Dec 6, 2003
  3. shad0704

    Lane Guest

    A $10 Haynes or Chilton manual for your car from any auto parts store will
    probably give you a bit more detail than people will provide here.

    Remove drive shaft nut.
    Remove castle nut from the ball joint on the lower control arm. Pry the arm
    downward with a prybar or 2x4 while whacking the knuckle with a hammer to
    break the joint loose from the knuckle.
    Remove the nut from the outer tie rod end and use a puller to separate the
    two (available for rental/free loan from most auto parts stores). A pickle
    fork will work, but you may damage the dust boot.
    Remove the two large strut to knuckle mounting bolts. Doing so kills your
    alignment, so you'll have to get the car re-aligned. Separate the strut
    from the knuckle.
    Pull the knuckle and hub assembly off the axle shaft.
    You'll need a press to separate the hub from the knuckle, remove the
    bearings, install the new bearings, and put the pieces back together. It's
    not something you would even want to try doing without a press. My Saturn
    retailer's service department does it for me for a few bucks when I bring in
    the parts and it's well worth it.
    Re-assemble and get the car aligned. Axle nut needs to be super tight -
    wail-on-it-with-an-impact sort of tight or the replacement wheel bearing
    won't last very long. (see the suspension section on my website if you want
    more detail). Also, I believe that axle nuts are specified to be once-only
    use in the factory service manual. A set of new ones will run around $10
    from your retailer's parts department.

    This is off the top of my head from doing it 5 or 6 times and it may not
    include all the detail and proper order. Don't ask me any more than what
    I've written here - this is all I'm able to remember. Buy a manual! I
    cannot stress that enough.

    Lane [ l a n e @ p a i r . c o m ]
    Lane, Dec 6, 2003
  4. shad0704

    BANDIT2941 Guest

    Remove the nut from the outer tie rod end and use a puller to separate the
    I have gotten away with threading the nut on so its flush with the end of the
    threads, then smacking it out.......
    Does it really kill your alignment though? There is no camber/caster adjustment
    on stock struts anyway. Only way to really adjust it is to slot the holes on
    the top.......or aftermarket struts that are adjustable........
    BANDIT2941, Dec 6, 2003
  5. shad0704

    Lane Guest

    It's been my understanding that there is soom room for camber adjustment
    with the stock struts, just not a lot. I've had several alignments back
    when I had stock struts where they did change that setting by loosening the
    lower bolts without elongating that lower hole to allow for more adjustment.

    Lane [ l a n e @ p a i r . c o m ]
    Lane, Dec 6, 2003
  6. shad0704

    BANDIT2941 Guest

    It's been my understanding that there is soom room for camber adjustment
    I mean elongating the upper holes.........not sure if they really could
    elongate the lower ones.

    On an aftermarket set I had, the bolts were offset so as the bolt turned it
    would change the camber.
    BANDIT2941, Dec 6, 2003
  7. shad0704

    chuck smoko Guest

    Bandit and the orig. thread poster "shad704",
    According to my Chiltons book for my older 93, camber
    can be adjusted up to 3 degrees just by loosening the 2 big
    bolts & "pushing or pulling the knuckle in the desired direction".

    I just replaced both bearings and when I took it to be aligned,
    the tech said camber was okay. He also said there is an after-
    market kit that puts cam bolts in there to gain further adjustment.
    He said most kits are needed after an accident. I did have to
    have the tow adjusted as I had to replace a lower control arm
    (due a bad lower ball joint) and a tie rod end.

    Also while I have it up and to save from additional alignments, I
    check all of the boots like on the CV, all ball joints/tie rods and
    steering rack. Also to save another alignment (the orig. poster
    was replacing a bearing), it would make sense to replace the
    bearing on both sides as if one side goes, the 2nd will follow not
    too long after.

    chuck smoko, Dec 6, 2003
  8. shad0704

    Lane Guest

    It is the lower hole that you can grind to elongate to gain more camber
    adjustability (and not the upper hole). The upper bolt/hole acts as the
    fixed pivot point when putting that 'tilt' in the hub assembly and wheel.
    Here's a pic of my Carrera coilover housings that are on my track car:
    http://www57.pair.com/lane/photos92/nfhous2.jpg . You can see the bolt
    holes in that picture.

    Also, this free method doesn't require buying the special bolts that are
    sold for the purpose of adding camber adjustability.

    Lane [ l a n e @ p a i r . c o m ]
    Lane, Dec 7, 2003
  9. shad0704

    BANDIT2941 Guest

    You can see the bolt
    Yeah......I didn't really think about doing that freely like that.....

    thanks for the info
    BANDIT2941, Dec 8, 2003
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