water pump - '97 SW2

Discussion in 'Saturn S-series' started by just another, Oct 6, 2004.

  1. just another

    just another Guest

    Hoping for advice on replacing a water pump in my wife's '97 SW2. I don't have a repair manual.
    It looks like it can be done from the top.

    What are the bolt sizes? Any "gotchas"?

    The part seems mercifully inexpensive, $41 at NAPA. Also I was very pleased with the way it
    failed: it's been leaking slightly for about six weeks, and just started leaking profusely.
    (Very polite failure mode for us po' folks.)
     
    just another, Oct 6, 2004
    #1
  2. Just replaced my pump on a 1993 sw1 and I took most of the bolts off by the
    side and the rest from the top. You remove the plastic flex membrane under
    the right fender and you will be able to take most of the bolts off with a
    ratchet and a long extension. I think the bolts are 10mm. I did not bother
    to drain all the antifreeze because I had changed it not long ago. Have a
    big basin ready and place it under the pump area so that when you remove the
    hose going to the pump you will be able to catch the coolant coming out.
    Clean all the residual gasket left over from the old pump with a scraper
    before you install the new one. Have a gallon of antifreeze handy to refill
    the lost coolant. It is also a good time to make sure that the fan comes on
    as the motor heats up.Nice job to do on a sunny autumn day before the winter
    gets here.
    Alex
     
    Alex Marcuzzi, Oct 6, 2004
    #2
  3. just another

    Kirk Kohnen Guest

    Jack up the right front, remove the wheel and the plastic splash guards.

    When I removed the 3 bolts that hold on the pump pulley, I used a 6 sided 10
    mm socket, a 10 inch extension, and an impact wrench. This made removing
    those easy - didn't have to worry about the pulley spinning. That was the
    only "trick" that I'm aware of.

    Remove the pulley from the pump by pulling it out the top.

    The dealer replacement (dunno about the napa one) has the gasket built in to
    the pump. Simply clean up the engine block with a clean rag and you should
    be in good shape - there isn't any paper gasket material there with the
    factory pump.

    When I did this job, I used the opportunity to REALLY empty out the engine
    block and radiator for a nice and complete coolant change. The 97s use
    Dexcool - I mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

    Torques aren't critical - I'd use a 1/4" ratchet (for the small spaces) and
    just make them all snug.

    And, a _QUICK_ zip of the impact wrench to reattach the pulley. You don't
    need it TIGHT, just snug.

    Hope this helps - good luck.
     
    Kirk Kohnen, Oct 7, 2004
    #3
  4. just another

    just another Guest

    Thanks for the advice. Seems to be a consensus about removing the bolts from the side.
     
    just another, Oct 7, 2004
    #4
  5. Thanks for the detailed response!

    Shoots, I forgot about the pulley (moving it from the old pump to the new)... and I don't have
    access to an impact wrench. On a Toyota once, I ended up having to take the pump to a repair
    shop to get the pulley off; I couldn't find a way to do it myself. Do you know of other
    alternatives than an air wrench? (I'm nowhere near a shop.)
     
    Melodious Thunk, Oct 7, 2004
    #5
  6. just another

    Kirk Kohnen Guest

    The impact driver that I use is an electric one.

    I've seen electric ones (that plug into your cigarette lighter) at Wal Mart
    for on the order of $24 or so.

    You might be able to loosen the pulley by using a wrench on it while the
    belt is still on (to hold it still). You'd have to rotate the engine though
    (big socket, breaker bar) to be able to get to all 3 of the bolts.

    Good Luck!
     
    Kirk Kohnen, Oct 8, 2004
    #6
  7. I've done it by hand. One trick is to use a 6 pt box wrench an go 'the
    long way' when reaching for the bolt, i.e. the wrench handle passes
    beween the two other bolts to reach the third. This cuts the amount of
    torque created, and you can have a friend help hold the pulley somehow.

    I used antiseize (i before e except after c!) on the threads and snugged
    them good. YMMV

    But man, air tools make this stuff so much easier....
     
    Philip Nasadowski, Oct 8, 2004
    #7
  8. Melodious Thunk <> typed until their fingers bled,
    and came up with:

    you can use a strap wrench to hold the pully.
     
    Kevin M. Keller, Oct 8, 2004
    #8
  9. just another

    just another Guest

    Thanks to everyone for a lot of great advice. I got the water pump installed in two hours and
    fifteen band-aids.
     
    just another, Oct 10, 2004
    #9
  10. just another

    just another Guest

    I ended up using a hammer (the handle, that is) jammed between the waterpump pulley and the
    crankshaft pulley to keep the pulley still, and a (teeny little) 10mm wrench with a pair o'
    pliers for added leverage. A neighbor showed me the pliers trick.
     
    just another, Oct 10, 2004
    #10
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