water pump - '97 SW2

[just another]

Hoping for advice on replacing a water pump in my wife's '97 SW2. I don't have a repair manual.
It looks like it can be done from the top.

What are the bolt sizes? Any "gotchas"?

The part seems mercifully inexpensive, $41 at NAPA. Also I was very pleased with the way it
failed: it's been leaking slightly for about six weeks, and just started leaking profusely.
(Very polite failure mode for us po' folks.)

 

[Alex Marcuzzi]

Just replaced my pump on a 1993 sw1 and I took most of the bolts off by the
side and the rest from the top. You remove the plastic flex membrane under
the right fender and you will be able to take most of the bolts off with a
ratchet and a long extension. I think the bolts are 10mm. I did not bother
to drain all the antifreeze because I had changed it not long ago. Have a
big basin ready and place it under the pump area so that when you remove the
hose going to the pump you will be able to catch the coolant coming out.
Clean all the residual gasket left over from the old pump with a scraper
before you install the new one. Have a gallon of antifreeze handy to refill
the lost coolant. It is also a good time to make sure that the fan comes on
as the motor heats up.Nice job to do on a sunny autumn day before the winter
gets here.
Alex

 

[Kirk Kohnen]

Jack up the right front, remove the wheel and the plastic splash guards.

When I removed the 3 bolts that hold on the pump pulley, I used a 6 sided 10
mm socket, a 10 inch extension, and an impact wrench. This made removing
those easy - didn't have to worry about the pulley spinning. That was the
only "trick" that I'm aware of.

Remove the pulley from the pump by pulling it out the top.

The dealer replacement (dunno about the napa one) has the gasket built in to
the pump. Simply clean up the engine block with a clean rag and you should
be in good shape - there isn't any paper gasket material there with the
factory pump.

When I did this job, I used the opportunity to REALLY empty out the engine
block and radiator for a nice and complete coolant change. The 97s use
Dexcool - I mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

Torques aren't critical - I'd use a 1/4" ratchet (for the small spaces) and
just make them all snug.

And, a _QUICK_ zip of the impact wrench to reattach the pulley. You don't
need it TIGHT, just snug.

Hope this helps - good luck.

 

[just another]

Just replaced my pump on a 1993 sw1 and I took most of the bolts off by the
side and the rest from the top. You remove the plastic flex membrane under
the right fender and you will be able to take most of the bolts off with a
ratchet and a long extension. I think the bolts are 10mm. I did not bother
to drain all the antifreeze because I had changed it not long ago. Have a
big basin ready and place it under the pump area so that when you remove the
hose going to the pump you will be able to catch the coolant coming out.
Clean all the residual gasket left over from the old pump with a scraper
before you install the new one. Have a gallon of antifreeze handy to refill
the lost coolant. It is also a good time to make sure that the fan comes on
as the motor heats up.Nice job to do on a sunny autumn day before the winter
gets here.
Alex

Thanks for the advice. Seems to be a consensus about removing the bolts from the side.

 

[Melodious Thunk]

Jack up the right front, remove the wheel and the plastic splash guards.

When I removed the 3 bolts that hold on the pump pulley, I used a 6 sided 10
mm socket, a 10 inch extension, and an impact wrench. This made removing
those easy - didn't have to worry about the pulley spinning. That was the
only "trick" that I'm aware of.

Remove the pulley from the pump by pulling it out the top.

The dealer replacement (dunno about the napa one) has the gasket built in to
the pump. Simply clean up the engine block with a clean rag and you should
be in good shape - there isn't any paper gasket material there with the
factory pump.

When I did this job, I used the opportunity to REALLY empty out the engine
block and radiator for a nice and complete coolant change. The 97s use
Dexcool - I mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

Torques aren't critical - I'd use a 1/4" ratchet (for the small spaces) and
just make them all snug.

And, a _QUICK_ zip of the impact wrench to reattach the pulley. You don't
need it TIGHT, just snug.

Hope this helps - good luck.

Thanks for the detailed response!

Shoots, I forgot about the pulley (moving it from the old pump to the new)... and I don't have
access to an impact wrench. On a Toyota once, I ended up having to take the pump to a repair
shop to get the pulley off; I couldn't find a way to do it myself. Do you know of other
alternatives than an air wrench? (I'm nowhere near a shop.)

 

[Kirk Kohnen]

The impact driver that I use is an electric one.

I've seen electric ones (that plug into your cigarette lighter) at Wal Mart
for on the order of $24 or so.

You might be able to loosen the pulley by using a wrench on it while the
belt is still on (to hold it still). You'd have to rotate the engine though
(big socket, breaker bar) to be able to get to all 3 of the bolts.

Good Luck!

 

[Philip Nasadowski]

Shoots, I forgot about the pulley (moving it from the old pump to the new)...
and I don't have access to an impact wrench. On a Toyota once, I ended up having to take the
pump to a repair shop to get the pulley off; I couldn't find a way to do it myself. Do you
know of other alternatives than an air wrench? (I'm nowhere near a shop.)

I've done it by hand. One trick is to use a 6 pt box wrench an go 'the
long way' when reaching for the bolt, i.e. the wrench handle passes
beween the two other bolts to reach the third. This cuts the amount of
torque created, and you can have a friend help hold the pulley somehow.

I used antiseize (i before e except after c!) on the threads and snugged
them good. YMMV

But man, air tools make this stuff so much easier....

 

[Kevin M. Keller]

Melodious Thunk <[email protected]> typed until their fingers bled,
and came up with:

Shoots, I forgot about the pulley (moving it from the old pump to the
new)... and I don't have access to an impact wrench. On a Toyota once,
I ended up having to take the pump to a repair shop to get the pulley
off; I couldn't find a way to do it myself. Do you know of other
alternatives than an air wrench? (I'm nowhere near a shop.)

you can use a strap wrench to hold the pully.

 

[just another]

Thanks to everyone for a lot of great advice. I got the water pump installed in two hours and
fifteen band-aids.

 

[just another]

I've done it by hand. One trick is to use a 6 pt box wrench an go 'the
long way' when reaching for the bolt, i.e. the wrench handle passes
beween the two other bolts to reach the third. This cuts the amount of
torque created, and you can have a friend help hold the pulley somehow.

I used antiseize (i before e except after c!) on the threads and snugged
them good. YMMV

But man, air tools make this stuff so much easier....

I ended up using a hammer (the handle, that is) jammed between the waterpump pulley and the
crankshaft pulley to keep the pulley still, and a (teeny little) 10mm wrench with a pair o'
pliers for added leverage. A neighbor showed me the pliers trick.