SW2 - Trouble inserting key in ignition

  • Thread starter Thread starter Peter A. Schott
  • Start date Start date
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Peter A. Schott

Not sure what's causing this, but I'm having more trouble inserting my key
into the ignition on my '99 SW2. Sometimes it goes right in, sometimes the
piece of metal over the hole just won't budge until I fiddle with things for a
while. Is this a cause for concern? Do I need a new part or have to take
something apart to do some repairs?

Thanks.

-Pete Schott
 
Not sure what's causing this, but I'm having more trouble inserting my key
into the ignition on my '99 SW2. Sometimes it goes right in, sometimes the
piece of metal over the hole just won't budge until I fiddle with things for a
while. Is this a cause for concern? Do I need a new part or have to take
something apart to do some repairs?
Click to expand...

Try some powdered graphite in the lock. You can find this in the tool or
hardware department at Sears, or at any hardware store.
 
Thanks, but that's not quite my problem. I'm having trouble getting the key
in sometimes. No problems getting it out. Just the little cover that is over
the hole doesn't want to move at times. I mess around with it for a minute or
two and all is well, but I'm wondering what's going on and if there's anything
that might be causing it that wouldn't require replacing the entire ignition
cylinder.

Just wasn't sure if that was common or even quite what to search on for a
problem of the key not going in.

Thanks.

-Pete

Lane said:
Google groups is your friend.

http://groups.google.com/groups/sea...:rec.autos.makers.saturn&safe=off&qt_s=Search

And since I have posted on this issue in the past and don't feel like
re-typing it every time the question comes up:

http://groups.google.com/group/rec....1364c?lnk=st&q=&rnum=3&hl=en#d92df7ed1621364c

http://groups.google.com/group/rec....bd8d4?lnk=st&q=&rnum=8&hl=en#e3fb2fadb19bd8d4

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
---
Visit my Saturn Car Audio and Performance Page at http://www.evilplastic.com


Peter A. Schott said:
Not sure what's causing this, but I'm having more trouble inserting my key
into the ignition on my '99 SW2. Sometimes it goes right in, sometimes
the
piece of metal over the hole just won't budge until I fiddle with things
for a
while. Is this a cause for concern? Do I need a new part or have to take
something apart to do some repairs?

Thanks.

-Pete Schott
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, but that's not quite my problem. I'm having trouble getting the key
in sometimes. No problems getting it out. Just the little cover that is over
the hole doesn't want to move at times. I mess around with it for a minute or
two and all is well, but I'm wondering what's going on and if there's anything
that might be causing it that wouldn't require replacing the entire ignition
cylinder.
Click to expand...

Powdered graphite works wonders on uncooperative locks.
 
Powdered graphite works wonders on uncooperative locks.
Click to expand...


So does replacing the lock cylinder. They are not they hard to change
on a Saturn as I just replaced the one in a 97. You do have to remove
cover around steering wheel and lock and then then to insert key trun
it too accessory, and eithe press a button on cylinder housing or
stick a pin in a hole on it (depending on housing style as yours could
be either but likley the button style) and then remove cylinder by
pulling on key. Saturn can code you a new cylinder to match old key
for your car and if you do it yourself it is about 35 bucks. The new
cylinder just snaps right in and you are in bussiness and you replace
covers on your are done. Maybe a 10 or 15 mintue job with right tools.
 
So does replacing the lock cylinder. They are not they hard to change
on a Saturn as I just replaced the one in a 97. You do have to remove
cover around steering wheel and lock and then then to insert key trun
it too accessory, and eithe press a button on cylinder housing or
stick a pin in a hole on it (depending on housing style as yours could
be either but likley the button style) and then remove cylinder by
pulling on key. Saturn can code you a new cylinder to match old key
for your car and if you do it yourself it is about 35 bucks. The new
cylinder just snaps right in and you are in bussiness and you replace
covers on your are done. Maybe a 10 or 15 mintue job with right tools.
Click to expand...

A tube of powdered graphite is about three bucks, and it takes maybe fifteen
seconds to puff a little bit into the lock cylinder.

Which method do *you* think makes more sense to try first?
 
Doug Miller said:
A tube of powdered graphite is about three bucks, and it takes maybe
fifteen
seconds to puff a little bit into the lock cylinder.

Which method do *you* think makes more sense to try first?


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Click to expand...

Easier, cheaper, quicker is always a good place to start.

Ken
 
A tube of powdered graphite is about three bucks, and it takes maybe fifteen
seconds to puff a little bit into the lock cylinder.

Which method do *you* think makes more sense to try first?
Click to expand...


Well I tried the graphic trick and it made it worsed and cause the key
in lock warning to run when key was out after treatment too. No more
graphite for me. I had to clean the plunger in housing that cylinder
pressed on when key was in that the graphite gummed up! If it is a 99
it has some wear on it too. It now works like new and it came with a
new bezel around key too which is a nice touch and a extra key.
 
Well I tried the graphic trick and it made it worsed and cause the key
in lock warning to run when key was out after treatment too. No more
graphite for me. I had to clean the plunger in housing that cylinder
pressed on when key was in that the graphite gummed up!
Click to expand...

???

Graphite is a dry powder. It doesn't -- can't -- gum anything up.
 
Graphite is a dry powder. It doesn't -- can't -- gum anything up.
Click to expand...


Yes it can because the plunger had a bit of grease on it from factory
as did key cylinder end and the graphite combined with it and goo'ed
it just enough for plunger to stick because it has a low force spring
on it. Unless you are sure that lock is "dry" it is not wise to use it
sometimes as I found out first hand.
 
Yes it can because the plunger had a bit of grease on it from factory
as did key cylinder end and the graphite combined with it and goo'ed
it just enough for plunger to stick because it has a low force spring
on it. Unless you are sure that lock is "dry" it is not wise to use it
sometimes as I found out first hand.
Click to expand...

You're putting the blame in the wrong place IMO, on the graphite instead of on
the grease where it belongs.
 
You're putting the blame in the wrong place IMO, on the graphite instead of on
the grease where it belongs.
Click to expand...


Know I am not, the grease was in there from day one, I did not put it
there and that part worked fine (key warning tone) until I tried
graphite and the graphite do not fix cylinder problems either so I
replaced it and cleaned plunger of graphite goo .
 
Doesn't matter which one he is blamiung, he pointed out that if there is
grease in there and graphite is added it may cause problems. To me graphite
seems like a temporary fix where a new key cylinder would be more of a long
term thing.
Seems to be a weak point on the S series to me. I know three other people
personally with keys that are hard to get in and/or turn with S series cars.
I've owned 14 cars of a variety of brands (most older than my SL1) and have
never had any key problems until this one.
 
Seems to be a weak point on the S series to me. I know three other people
personally with keys that are hard to get in and/or turn with S series cars.
I've owned 14 cars of a variety of brands (most older than my SL1) and have
never had any key problems until this one.
Click to expand...


I found out that Saturn used at least 3 cylinder styles in that car.
The original 7 tumbler one, a upgraded 7 tumbler one that was a
service replacement for the original one (not sure when this came out)
and a 9 tumbler one. The 9 tumbler version came out in mid 97 so a 97
can have either one. The housing changed too for new 9 tumbler version
but the upgraded 7 tumbler version retrofits into old style housing. I
do not know if the 9 tumbler version was improved or not at a later
date because it did not apply to my car anyway. One more thing, GM
mounts the housing with break away bolts (heads break off) so if you
have to replaced the housing it can be a pain getting the bolts out
even when starting them with a chisel because they can have loctite on
them too. Also when you replace a cylinder, you get a tumbler kit so
you can easily code it to your old key.
 
Seems to be a weak point on the S series to me. I know three other people
personally with keys that are hard to get in and/or turn with S series
cars.
Click to expand...

Personally, I think some people are contributors to this. The key and
cylinder will wear more if your keychain contains tons of keys and a big
mess of extra crap on it (why do I often see women with HUGE keychains?).
Especially as it dangles, swings around, and gets hit by your knees all the
time.

Graphite may help, if that grease doesn't get in the way, but a better
long-term solution is replacement of the cylinder. The original poster
pointed out that it was the little metal flap/cover thingy only - but it's a
part of that cylinder and the mechanisms all work together. I've had mine
refuse to turn once, and when you're away from home or on the road
somewhere - complete failure of it would seriously suck. It's not difficult
and it's not expensive, so just replace it.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
 
Personally, I think some people are contributors to this. The key and
cylinder will wear more if your keychain contains tons of keys and a big
mess of extra crap on it (why do I often see women with HUGE keychains?).
Especially as it dangles, swings around, and gets hit by your knees all the
time.
Click to expand...


Interesting theory. It may indeed have some merit.
 
Personally, I think some people are contributors to this. The key and
cylinder will wear more if your keychain contains tons of keys and a big
mess of extra crap on it (why do I often see women with HUGE keychains?).
Especially as it dangles, swings around, and gets hit by your knees all the
time.

Graphite may help, if that grease doesn't get in the way, but a better
long-term solution is replacement of the cylinder. The original poster
pointed out that it was the little metal flap/cover thingy only - but it's a
part of that cylinder and the mechanisms all work together. I've had mine
refuse to turn once, and when you're away from home or on the road
somewhere - complete failure of it would seriously suck. It's not difficult
and it's not expensive, so just replace it.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
Click to expand...

Agreed on the gobs of keys. Stuffed animals and photos on the instrument
panal blocking idiot lights and gages are another problem I see... Oh
and crap hanging from the rearview mirror... And who is the frig'n moron
that keeps tacking on all of the damn Re's!!!

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re:
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re:
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Retard: Re: Re:
 
BläBlä said:
Personally, I think some people are contributors to this. The key and
cylinder will wear more if your keychain contains tons of keys and a big
mess of extra crap on it (why do I often see women with HUGE keychains?).
Especially as it dangles, swings around, and gets hit by your knees all
the
time.

Graphite may help, if that grease doesn't get in the way, but a better
long-term solution is replacement of the cylinder. The original poster
pointed out that it was the little metal flap/cover thingy only - but
it's a
part of that cylinder and the mechanisms all work together. I've had
mine
refuse to turn once, and when you're away from home or on the road
somewhere - complete failure of it would seriously suck. It's not
difficult
and it's not expensive, so just replace it.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
Click to expand...

Agreed on the gobs of keys. Stuffed animals and photos on the instrument
panal blocking idiot lights and gages are another problem I see... Oh
and crap hanging from the rearview mirror... And who is the frig'n moron
that keeps tacking on all of the damn Re's!!!

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re:
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re:
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Retard: Re: Re:
Click to expand...

Lane gives good advice. Damn good.

Ken
 
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