Stalling/studdering problem...

Hi and TIA for talking a look...

'94 SL2, 175K miles... Tune up about 25K ago....5 spd....change oil filter
regularly...car's unique feature of self oil disposal means car always has
clean oil...

Car starts/runs fine....Problem is that as soon as you take your foot off
the gas (no matter how much RPM you had it up to...3k or 1k rpm) the engine
almost stalls (sometimes does) sputters a little at almost 0 rpms, then
comes back to normal idle and settles in. Thankfully is a 5 spd, so
sometimes as I roll up on a light and it stalls, I pop the clutch for a
second to restart. This problem started about 5 months ago as an oddity,
and had been gradually getting worse (a breathing problem?) Any suggestions
on where I should begin? I don't have much $ and am just trying to squeeze
as much as I can out of it. I kiss the guys ass who's been inspecting it
for the last three years as he has to "help" it through emissions as well as
overlooking the cracked windshield that emanates from two rust bubbles where
it meets the roof (stress cracks?)

Anyway, he'll overlook the others, but if it stalls on him during
testing.....(you get the picture)

TIA!!!

Scott

 

Classic EGR valve.

B~

 

Thank B!

I googled and it looks pretty easy to fix, and not too much $...

My only other question that seems to pop up in discussions is that it could
be the solenoid? BTW - I failed to mention I have never gotten a SES code
or anything. I had also noticed that someone had bogging and exhaust
smells which I have, but didn't think anything of it. They mentioned they
changed their PCM coolant temp sensor...I guess I have to check that too....

Thanks again...

Scott

 

There is a pitol (?) solenoid that was on mine that I could remove and clean
with throttle body cleaner and a Q-Tip and tooth brush. Always seemed it
was the damn EGR valve though and sometimes I could clean it but sometimes
it gets so carboned up it's almost impossible to clean.

I think the throttle body solenoid generally affects the car by not allowing
it to get back down to idle speed. The EGR when it acts up results in the
stall which is more noticeable in the manual as when you push in the clutch
than the automatic.

B~

 

Don't forget to clean the throttle body (butterfly valve).

 

Hi, just bought a saturn wagon, 1998 135k on the clock and as is. Truly a
pain to get it ready for safety certification. I found parts to be higher
priced than I am used to; ex. EGR valve $300. Electronic actuation as
opposed to vacuum. So when my wagon began to stall at avery stop sign and
light I thought that the repair would financially ruin me (lol!). A
conversation I had with a mehanic he told me about two temperature sensors
that may cause exactly this type of problem. I got the parts from Saturn, 2
temp sensors, and replaced the one on the rear of the engine(driver's side,
just below and behind the expensive EGR valve)and instantly the car ran as
it should. Idle back down to just below 1k rpm, no stalling and no more
catalyic stench(rotten egg). Oh yeah, each sensor was $20.Only problem
left is that I cannot find where the other sensor is. Saturn tells me that
they are BOTH on the head, but I seem to be able to find one only . With
all the sputtering and stalling I thought that I had better clean the EGR
valve and the throtle body(including MAP sensor at far right)WORKS GREAT

 

For 1998 I think there was only one temperature sensor, but it doesn't
really matter - the second sensor only runs the temperature gauge and
won't change how well the car runs.
-Rick

 

You need to find another source for your replacement parts. You do not
provide enough info for me to look up the EGR to give you a full cost
comparison, but here is a sample web parts site that would be substantially
less. Also, these places offer additional 10% savings at various times
during the year, and if you are out of California, there is no sales tax and
in most cases shipping is free.

http://www.autopartsgiant.com/

I'm sure there are other on line sources, but I've had good luck with this
vendor.

Bob

 

Vacuum egr's pretty much went out in the 80's. No wonder you think stuff
is pricey (then again oem is pricey). Autozone shows egr's for about 120
bucks but you should always clean the original unless it stops working.

You can manually clean your TB and EGR, map isn't really cleanalbe. For
the rest of the engine I recommend GM's Top Engine Cleaner. Thats
something you might need to do. I posted some scant directions for it
about a month ago...

I would just add to that..."dont let it soak or hydrolock" and "change
your oil afterwards".