Sequential electrical failures

My 1996 SL2 is having sequential electrical failures. In order: Door
locks, Radio, rear window defroster, some of the idiot lights on the
dash when the key is in the "on" position (there may be others, but my
daughter is the main driver and she may not have mentioned them all to
me). Replaced the Ignition switch and that didn't do any good. The
Battery is in very good condition, it's been load tested, etc.

Anyone encountered this issue? Spoke with the Saturn dealer head
service adviser and she said it could be the main wiring harness (she
called one of the mechanics and discussed it with him), and there were
no burn marks or any signs of anything wrong when the ignition switch
was changed out.

 

Not the same brand though I drive a SATURN now -- but the same YEAR - a
1996 Aerostar -

Wife insisted it would just STOP on her .. I was like "O.K <yeah
right>".

Then my friend and I went to Lunch one day and I was driving it, and
..."Poof, dead, nothing - was lucky I didn't cause an accident".

K, step one - trusted mechanic.

3 days later said it has to go to Ford since they have the machine <@
$100K a pop, he couldn't have all machines for all makes>.

Ford diagnosed it as a B Port module failure, i.e., one of the computer
chips.

$200-300 later back on the road - then we traded it in !

Not diagnosig your problem as this, but maybe it's a thought.

Good Luck.

 

Just a suggestion: Check all your grounds too. The lugs/screws/bolts to the
frame and/or engine can corrode and cause low voltage to your computer and
give you the symptoms you describe. Also remove and clean the connectors to
the computer too. Good luck

Bob
..

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll check for those possible bad grounds. As far
as the computer, I'm gonna have to read the manual to find out just
where it is.

 

Grounds were the first thing that came to mind. Second was any exposed
connections that might be susceptible to salt (that the cities are
sprinkling liberally on the roads this time of year here) whch can cause
some strange electrical leakage paths.
Oppie

 

I'm out in the land of crazies and nuts, i.e. CA, so there's no salt
on the roads, and the cars' never been anywhere near snow. But I will
check for corrosion in any case. Would the computer be under or near
the under hood main fuse block?

 

After you check for at least the obvious grounds, pull the fuses and check
for corrosion on the terminals. you can also try having the BCM (body
control module) checked. This is the module that is the common element in
everything you mentioned. I have a L series so can't speak for the SL2. A
good garage might be able to connect up a OBDii tool to access the BCM and
exercise the devices in question. Good luck as the BCM is $400 plus
installation and programming.
Oppie

 

What scrap yard do you use? I'd say $50 (Maybe $100 at the very max) at the
local U-Pull-It place.

Bob

 

I was quoting the dealer price installed and programmed to owner. The BCM
has a lot of parameters that must be programmed in - not the least of which
is the odometer reading (ref: L-series shop manual). To my knowledge this
can only be done with a Tech2. Most dealers will refuse to work with a
salvaged module under the premise that 'it might damage my tool' which is of
course unmitigated BS. Speaking as an engineer myself, any designer worth
his salt designs a tool that tolerates any downstream faults and at worst,
blows a fuse...
Oppie