Sequential electrical failures

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Gclanman, Jan 20, 2008.

  1. Gclanman

    Gclanman Guest

    My 1996 SL2 is having sequential electrical failures. In order: Door
    locks, Radio, rear window defroster, some of the idiot lights on the
    dash when the key is in the "on" position (there may be others, but my
    daughter is the main driver and she may not have mentioned them all to
    me). Replaced the Ignition switch and that didn't do any good. The
    Battery is in very good condition, it's been load tested, etc.

    Anyone encountered this issue? Spoke with the Saturn dealer head
    service adviser and she said it could be the main wiring harness (she
    called one of the mechanics and discussed it with him), and there were
    no burn marks or any signs of anything wrong when the ignition switch
    was changed out.
     
    Gclanman, Jan 20, 2008
    #1
  2. Gclanman

    Jon Jon Guest

    Not the same brand though I drive a SATURN now -- but the same YEAR - a
    1996 Aerostar -

    Wife insisted it would just STOP on her .. I was like "O.K <yeah
    right>".

    Then my friend and I went to Lunch one day and I was driving it, and
    ..."Poof, dead, nothing - was lucky I didn't cause an accident".

    K, step one - trusted mechanic.

    3 days later said it has to go to Ford since they have the machine <@
    $100K a pop, he couldn't have all machines for all makes>.

    Ford diagnosed it as a B Port module failure, i.e., one of the computer
    chips.

    $200-300 later back on the road - then we traded it in !

    Not diagnosig your problem as this, but maybe it's a thought.

    Good Luck.
     
    Jon Jon, Jan 20, 2008
    #2
  3. Gclanman

    Bob Shuman Guest

    Just a suggestion: Check all your grounds too. The lugs/screws/bolts to the
    frame and/or engine can corrode and cause low voltage to your computer and
    give you the symptoms you describe. Also remove and clean the connectors to
    the computer too. Good luck

    Bob
    ..
     
    Bob Shuman, Jan 20, 2008
    #3
  4. Gclanman

    Gclanman Guest

    Thanks for the tips. I'll check for those possible bad grounds. As far
    as the computer, I'm gonna have to read the manual to find out just
    where it is.
     
    Gclanman, Jan 22, 2008
    #4
  5. Gclanman

    Oppie Guest

    Grounds were the first thing that came to mind. Second was any exposed
    connections that might be susceptible to salt (that the cities are
    sprinkling liberally on the roads this time of year here) whch can cause
    some strange electrical leakage paths.
    Oppie
     
    Oppie, Jan 22, 2008
    #5
  6. Gclanman

    Gclanman Guest

    I'm out in the land of crazies and nuts, i.e. CA, so there's no salt
    on the roads, and the cars' never been anywhere near snow. But I will
    check for corrosion in any case. Would the computer be under or near
    the under hood main fuse block?
     
    Gclanman, Jan 22, 2008
    #6
  7. Gclanman

    Oppie Guest

    After you check for at least the obvious grounds, pull the fuses and check
    for corrosion on the terminals. you can also try having the BCM (body
    control module) checked. This is the module that is the common element in
    everything you mentioned. I have a L series so can't speak for the SL2. A
    good garage might be able to connect up a OBDii tool to access the BCM and
    exercise the devices in question. Good luck as the BCM is $400 plus
    installation and programming.
    Oppie
     
    Oppie, Jan 22, 2008
    #7
  8. Gclanman

    Bob Shuman Guest

    What scrap yard do you use? I'd say $50 (Maybe $100 at the very max) at the
    local U-Pull-It place.

    Bob
     
    Bob Shuman, Jan 22, 2008
    #8
  9. Gclanman

    Oppie Guest

    I was quoting the dealer price installed and programmed to owner. The BCM
    has a lot of parameters that must be programmed in - not the least of which
    is the odometer reading (ref: L-series shop manual). To my knowledge this
    can only be done with a Tech2. Most dealers will refuse to work with a
    salvaged module under the premise that 'it might damage my tool' which is of
    course unmitigated BS. Speaking as an engineer myself, any designer worth
    his salt designs a tool that tolerates any downstream faults and at worst,
    blows a fuse...
    Oppie
     
    Oppie, Jan 23, 2008
    #9
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