rotor thickness for an L300

  • Thread starter Thread starter David & Caroline
  • Start date Start date
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David & Caroline

Anyone out there with the service manuals for the 2001 L300, or anyone else
for that matter, what is the thickness spec for the front brake rotors on
the 2001 L300 (I am looking to find out the initial thickness, and the
minimum thickness at which it's safe to re-use (or turn down to)

Thanks!
 
Nominal new thickness 0.98 in, minimum thickness after refinish 0.90 in,
discard thickness 0.87 in.
 
Anyone out there with the service manuals for the 2001 L300, or anyone else
for that matter, what is the thickness spec for the front brake rotors on
the 2001 L300 (I am looking to find out the initial thickness, and the
minimum thickness at which it's safe to re-use (or turn down to)
Click to expand...

As an aside, when I first put brakes on my 95 SC2, I couldn't find a shop to
turn the rotors for me, even though I had the specs in my hand and the
micrometer showed they were within spec. Everywhere but one place said they
were too thin. So you might have trouble finding someone to turn them. That was
at 125k, I just did the breaks again at 200k and I put new rotors on it this
time. The rotors were $20 a piece. Not sure what rotors will cost for your L
series but if they're cheap you may find there isn't much of a price difference
between getting the old ones turned and just buying new ones.
 
BANDIT2941 said:
As an aside, when I first put brakes on my 95 SC2, I couldn't find a shop to
turn the rotors for me, even though I had the specs in my hand and the
micrometer showed they were within spec. Everywhere but one place said they
were too thin. So you might have trouble finding someone to turn them. That was
at 125k, I just did the breaks again at 200k and I put new rotors on it this
time. The rotors were $20 a piece. Not sure what rotors will cost for your L
series but if they're cheap you may find there isn't much of a price difference
between getting the old ones turned and just buying new ones.
Click to expand...

I've also been pampered in the past with cars that don't have expensive
rotors - however, the ones for the wife's L series are $90 a crack (even the
ones down at AutoZone are $88 each). I ended up just having the dealership
do the brakes (how sad is that!) - no time with the holidays and
everything - anyway, Saturn actually turned the rotors - overall, the rotors
were fine - they had a little bit of a lip on the outside edge, but other
than that were smooth and not out of round - looks like they just cleaned up
the surface a little bit, and evened everything out. Anyway - haven't had a
chance to put a mic on them to see how thick they machined them down to yet.
In any event, Saturn includes resurfacing (if needed) in their "brake job"
price - so it's all good!
 
BANDIT2941 said:
As an aside, when I first put brakes on my 95 SC2, I couldn't find a shop to
turn the rotors for me, even though I had the specs in my hand and the
micrometer showed they were within spec. Everywhere but one place said they
were too thin. So you might have trouble finding someone to turn them. That was
at 125k, I just did the breaks again at 200k and I put new rotors on it this
time. The rotors were $20 a piece. Not sure what rotors will cost for your L
series but if they're cheap you may find there isn't much of a price difference
between getting the old ones turned and just buying new ones.
Click to expand...

I had the opposite problem with my wife's SL1: Rotors were replaced
at about 60K but were apparently bad from the factory. They quickly
started pulsing, so returned to the shop and they turned them.
About 15-20K later they were pulsing again. Different shop,
insisted they were still within spec, so they turned them again.
Then about 15-20K after that again the same thing. Finally, about
15-20K after that a shop I've had good luck with turned them and it
"took" -- they've not been pulsing since. I'm fairly confident they
won't stand turning again, though.
 
Make sure when you put the wheels on, you use a torque wrench and torque the
nuts correctly.

Uneven torque will cause rotor warpage and pulsing of the brakes.

Spec is, I believe, 103 ft-lbs on the SL series.
 
Well, the tires weren't touched for most of this time. The various
shops put them on and they stayed on. Saturn may have rotated them
during services, but only one flat that I can remember, and the
tires lasted close to 100K.
 
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