Revving high in park?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Wurm, Jan 8, 2004.

  1. Wurm

    Wurm Guest

    Hi all,

    Car's been acting a little odd last couple times I drove it. This has never
    happened before and currently its stupidly cold outside and prolly the
    coldest this car has ever encountered (about -30 celcius, -40 with wind) so
    I hope its just due to that. Anyway, after around a 1 to 1.5 hour drive last
    night and this morning, the car ran fine while driving but when I go to park
    the car, as soon as I put the car in Park the engine rev's up to about 2500
    and sits there. If I drop it back into drive (auto tranny) the rpm goes
    right back to hovering at 800 like it always has, and if I kill the engine
    and restart it it revs properly at 800 while in park. Does anyone know what
    could be causing this? the car is a '98 SL2 w/ 115,000 km on it.


    Wurm, Jan 8, 2004
  2. Wurm

    Woobie Guest

    It sounds like your throttle body is gummed up. It costs 75.00 to fix,
    but ppl on this board could probably tell you how to clean it. It may not be
    your problem, but if it is,please get it fixed. My car tried to "jump" into
    an intersection on a red. After it stuck twice in two weeks, I took it in.
    Woobie, Jan 19, 2004
  3. Wurm

    Wurm Guest

    Hrm, thanks for the info. I have to bring it in for regular maintenance soon
    so ill check into it.

    Wurm, Jan 19, 2004
  4. Cleaning a throttle body is quite easy once you get the basic idea.
    this is for the DOHC (two hamster :) version:

    * Remove that plastic air duct thing.
    * Unplug the two electric connectors - TPS and IAC. They're different
    so you shouldn't be able to mix them up.
    * Hold the throttle cable, and manually flip the throttle open so you
    can disconnect the cable from it. The cable will 'fall' inward and
    you'll hear the gas pedal thunk. It should move REAL easy.
    * Pop off the clip holding the air hoses on, and slip the hoses off. Oh
    yeah, do'nt lose the rubber thingie - put it safely aside.
    * Grab your friendly 10mm socket, and twirl off the two bolts. The
    throttle body will come off withthem, or may be slightly stuck to the
    gasket and all.
    * Oh yes, you need a new gasket, but if you're a cheapie like me you
    might be able to reuse it. Get a new one anyway. While you're there,
    get 2 or so cans of THROTTLE BODY cleaner. It's not kinder and gentler,
    it's actually really a lot better at getting the junk off.
    * Use a Torx, remove the TPS and IAC. Watch you don't strip the threads.
    * Hose the throttle body off with cleaner, and get all the crud off.
    When it's clean, it'll open/close really smoothly, and not stick.
    * Wipe off the IAC pintle carefully. Don't dammage that little spring.
    * Put the TPS and IAC back the way you found it. They mostly settle in
    place correctly. Carefully work the throttle to make sure the TPS is on
    * Clean the gasket areas on the manifold and TB.
    * Put the thing back together. Don't put the plastic air duct on yet,
    though. Don't forget those electric connectors or the computer gets mad
    at you.
    * Start the car and grab can #2 of the stuff. After the second or third
    try, get out of the car and connect the connectors back where they
    belong like you were supposed to in the previous step.
    * Follow the instructions, but the basic idea is spray the stuff in
    without killing the motor by either redlinning it until it explodes, or
    choking it with too much stuff.
    * Put the air duct back.

    Drive the car around, knowing you've now got a clean throttle body.
    Your gas hopefully won't be as sticky now.
    Philip Nasadowski, Jan 20, 2004
  5. Wurm

    B. Peg Guest

    Having done this a few times already (old toothbrushes are standard
    procedure for this job), anyone know why the thing drops back to idle once
    the car has come to a full stop? I notice if you coast along at maybe 1-2
    mph the thing idles high; stomp the brake and bring it to a stop and the
    idle comes back down quickly.

    If it was carboned up, why does stopping it alleviate the high idle problem?

    Seems this happens when it get cold. Cheaper gas or more prone to

    B. Peg, Jan 20, 2004
  6. Wurm

    BANDIT2941 Guest

    Having done this a few times already (old toothbrushes are standard
    The high idle(1200-1300) while coasting is a normal thing, not related to dirty
    BANDIT2941, Jan 21, 2004
  7. Wurm

    B. Peg Guest

    dirty TB.

    Bandit, thanks for the response and your help on this board. My high idle
    is around 2100 which drops to 1000-1100 when I "fully" stop. Somehow,
    something has to be telling that the car is still in motion and it holds the
    idle high.

    I'm wondering if that pingle spring was strengthened on later models?
    Wouldn't surprise me if the heat weakens it over time, or all the carbon on
    it eventually wears it out.

    B. Peg, Jan 21, 2004
  8. This is a 'feature'. If you roll the car slowly, the idle's high, if
    you stop, it drops. I have no idea why, but it's normal. In fact, if
    you roll from a stop in neutral down a slight hill, once you reach a few
    mph, the idle will pop up...
    Philip Nasadowski, Jan 21, 2004
  9. Wurm

    Wurm Guest

    Wow, thanx for the great instructions, with this and my Hayes im sure ill be
    able to figure it out.

    Wurm, Jan 22, 2004
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