Resealing the Oil Pan

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Box134, May 6, 2006.

  1. Box134

    Box134 Guest

    1996 SL2, 114,000 km.

    For quite a few years Saturn service has been telling me my oil pan is
    leaking. Since I didn't see any drips on the floor and the oil level wasn't
    significantly affected, I've let it ride.

    But now I'm seeing some small drips so I'm thinking to have it done. Only
    thing is Saturn quoted $491 CDN plus taxes. Jumping jackfish! It's so high
    because of all the labor scraping off the sealant they told me.

    Anyone had this done and what did they charge? I was thinking of checking
    around some other repair places. I've always liked the Saturn dealer for
    service but I noticed on my last bill they've even jacked up the price of
    oil changes to $30. Used to be reasonable. Maybe time to go elsewhere.
     
    Box134, May 6, 2006
    #1
  2. Box134

    SnoMan Guest

    You might just simply make sure the bolts are snug as they sometime
    loosen with age. (they do not need to be real tight either)
     
    SnoMan, May 7, 2006
    #2
  3. Box134

    Box134 Guest

    Good point. Thanks for that.

    I did a search on this and it seems what might contribute to making
    resealing a PITA is four of the pan bolts are inaccessible because of a
    pulley. Can anyone attest to this?

    Ye gads! Good design. I suppose you have to pull the engine to replace the
    oil pan. Anyway, it'll be a while before I drop $500 plus to stop a few
    drops of oil. I'm forgetting that while this car is low-mileage, and I still
    like it, it is 10 years old.
     
    Box134, May 7, 2006
    #3
  4. Box134

    BläBlä Guest

    Correct the pulley has to be pulled and the pans usually leak near the
    transmission in the pans radius. Not sure why they think it's so hard to
    remove RTV. On a side note I've given up on Permatex to seal anything
    anymore. The only RTV I use anymore is made by McKanica. I squirted a
    dab of all my RTV's onto a clean stainless steel surface and it was the
    only RTV with real grip. The black Permatex just flung off like crap.

    nope, just go in through the wheel well to remove the pulley.
    Hell I'd do that pan for $150us ;)
     
    BläBlä, May 7, 2006
    #4
  5. Box134

    Box134 Guest

    I should have mentioned, this is an automatic. Does it make a difference on
    the degree of difficulty?

    I suppose the service writer didn't have the whole picture on why it's so
    costly. He probably didn't know what you have to remove to get to all the
    bolts.

    What is the pan like? Is it cast or formed?
    I'd take you up on that if I could!
     
    Box134, May 8, 2006
    #5
  6. Box134

    SnoMan Guest


    I agree on the permatex, it is not what it used to be 30 years ago. I
    use the black RTV sealant as I have found it to be the best overall
    with the high temp orange a close second or even better in some cases.
     
    SnoMan, May 8, 2006
    #6
  7. Box134

    Richard Guest

    Isn't RTV silicone? Gasoline dissolves silicone, turns it to something mushy
    gummy and gooey like rubber cement. I can't imagine oil would be any better
    on it. But I could be wrong.
     
    Richard, May 22, 2006
    #7
  8. Box134

    Ritz Guest


    There are RTV products that are designed to be resistant to solvents and
    oil. A number of manufacturers use RTV for things like sealing
    transmission pans these days without any gasket whatsoever. Though,
    I've never seen that with a crankcase pan.

    Cheers,
     
    Ritz, May 22, 2006
    #8
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