Resealing the Oil Pan

[Box134]

1996 SL2, 114,000 km.

For quite a few years Saturn service has been telling me my oil pan is
leaking. Since I didn't see any drips on the floor and the oil level wasn't
significantly affected, I've let it ride.

But now I'm seeing some small drips so I'm thinking to have it done. Only
thing is Saturn quoted $491 CDN plus taxes. Jumping jackfish! It's so high
because of all the labor scraping off the sealant they told me.

Anyone had this done and what did they charge? I was thinking of checking
around some other repair places. I've always liked the Saturn dealer for
service but I noticed on my last bill they've even jacked up the price of
oil changes to $30. Used to be reasonable. Maybe time to go elsewhere.

 

[SnoMan]

1996 SL2, 114,000 km.

For quite a few years Saturn service has been telling me my oil pan is
leaking. Since I didn't see any drips on the floor and the oil level wasn't
significantly affected, I've let it ride.

But now I'm seeing some small drips so I'm thinking to have it done. Only
thing is Saturn quoted $491 CDN plus taxes. Jumping jackfish! It's so high
because of all the labor scraping off the sealant they told me.

Anyone had this done and what did they charge? I was thinking of checking
around some other repair places. I've always liked the Saturn dealer for
service but I noticed on my last bill they've even jacked up the price of
oil changes to $30. Used to be reasonable. Maybe time to go elsewhere.

You might just simply make sure the bolts are snug as they sometime
loosen with age. (they do not need to be real tight either)

 

[Box134]

Good point. Thanks for that.

I did a search on this and it seems what might contribute to making
resealing a PITA is four of the pan bolts are inaccessible because of a
pulley. Can anyone attest to this?

Ye gads! Good design. I suppose you have to pull the engine to replace the
oil pan. Anyway, it'll be a while before I drop $500 plus to stop a few
drops of oil. I'm forgetting that while this car is low-mileage, and I still
like it, it is 10 years old.

 

[BläBlä]

Good point. Thanks for that.

I did a search on this and it seems what might contribute to making
resealing a PITA is four of the pan bolts are inaccessible because of a
pulley. Can anyone attest to this?

Correct the pulley has to be pulled and the pans usually leak near the
transmission in the pans radius. Not sure why they think it's so hard to
remove RTV. On a side note I've given up on Permatex to seal anything
anymore. The only RTV I use anymore is made by McKanica. I squirted a
dab of all my RTV's onto a clean stainless steel surface and it was the
only RTV with real grip. The black Permatex just flung off like crap.

Ye gads! Good design. I suppose you have to pull the engine to replace the
oil pan.

nope, just go in through the wheel well to remove the pulley.

Anyway, it'll be a while before I drop $500 plus to stop a few
drops of oil. I'm forgetting that while this car is low-mileage, and I still
like it, it is 10 years old.

Hell I'd do that pan for $150us

 

[Box134]

Correct the pulley has to be pulled and the pans usually leak near the
transmission in the pans radius. Not sure why they think it's so hard to
remove RTV. On a side note I've given up on Permatex to seal anything
anymore. The only RTV I use anymore is made by McKanica. I squirted a
dab of all my RTV's onto a clean stainless steel surface and it was the
only RTV with real grip. The black Permatex just flung off like crap.

I should have mentioned, this is an automatic. Does it make a difference on
the degree of difficulty?

I suppose the service writer didn't have the whole picture on why it's so
costly. He probably didn't know what you have to remove to get to all the
bolts.

What is the pan like? Is it cast or formed?

Hell I'd do that pan for $150us

I'd take you up on that if I could!

 

[SnoMan]

On a side note I've given up on Permatex to seal anything
anymore. The only RTV I use anymore is made by McKanica

I agree on the permatex, it is not what it used to be 30 years ago. I
use the black RTV sealant as I have found it to be the best overall
with the high temp orange a close second or even better in some cases.

 

[Richard]

Correct the pulley has to be pulled and the pans usually leak near the
transmission in the pans radius. Not sure why they think it's so hard to
remove RTV. On a side note I've given up on Permatex to seal anything
anymore. The only RTV I use anymore is made by McKanica. I squirted a
dab of all my RTV's onto a clean stainless steel surface and it was the
only RTV with real grip. The black Permatex just flung off like crap.

Isn't RTV silicone? Gasoline dissolves silicone, turns it to something mushy
gummy and gooey like rubber cement. I can't imagine oil would be any better
on it. But I could be wrong.

 

[Ritz]

Isn't RTV silicone? Gasoline dissolves silicone, turns it to something mushy
gummy and gooey like rubber cement. I can't imagine oil would be any better
on it. But I could be wrong.

There are RTV products that are designed to be resistant to solvents and
oil. A number of manufacturers use RTV for things like sealing
transmission pans these days without any gasket whatsoever. Though,
I've never seen that with a crankcase pan.

Cheers,