Replacing Ignition Lock Cylinder w/ Stuck Key

There's a bunch of threads and info on replacing the lock cylinder and they all say you need to put the car in ACC mode to remove the cylinder. That isn't going to happen, its stuck hard between OFF and ACC. I have a new OEM cylinder on order. The GM service manual has instructions which involve removing most of the dashboard trim and the steering wheel and column. Argh. One post said it was possible with the column in place and I'd really like to find more info on that. Can anyone assist?

For future reference, the TSB is BULLETIN NO.: 95-T-20
SUBJECT:
Ignition Key Cannot Be Removed from Ignition Lock Cylinder (Replace Ignition Lock Cylinder, Tumblers and Springs, and Cut New Keys)
MODELS AFFECTED:
1994 Saturns with VINs between RZ205000 and RZ240000
(and I think this was a problem across a lot of years and models)

 

Can you remove he key from the ignition?

 

No. It's between LOCK(OFF) and ACC. Stuck there, won't turn, key in ignition.

 

Puff some graphite powder in along the edges of the key all the way around the key. Try to work the key and the steering wheel gently in both directions.

Concentrate on getting the key to rotate counter clockwise but working in both directions.

Keep working the graphite powder in. It will take a while to find its way down to where it is bound up so some patience is required. It won't look like you're getting anything in there but that little bit it does is what you need. Don't snap the key off.

Also, push in on the key while trying to turn it in both directions while you are doing this. I'm assuming the key got stuck while you were rotating it from on to off. If that is the case, again, your goal is to get the key counterclockwise to the off position to remove it.

 

Thanks. I'll give that a try when I get back home this weekend. I'll try to get it into ACC, since that's how you remove the cylinder and I should have the new one by then.

 

My mid 90s s cars always required me to remove the key entirely and have the little cover door slide and cover the keyhole when the key was removed. I couldn't get it to crank clockwise again unless it was still in the on position.

If I started to rotate it backwards, I had to take the key completely out and put it completely back in.

Every once in a blue moon, my key would stick exactly as yours is and I always found that ultimately it had to be worked back counterclockwise to the off position and the key removed. Meaning it would not crank clockwise once stuck. You can rock it in both directions but you need to get it to the off position to get the key out, then really lube it up with graphite, then put it to accessory

 

Keys and tumblers wear out wear out over the years. Dirt gets into the tumbler areas and binds them up. One day you find the parts have worn so much you can slide the key right out of the ignition while the car is still running. A combination of things occurring all at the same time. If the key is still locked in placed and you're replacing all that, I'd suggest getting some WD40 (liquid), not in a spray can. Don't want it spraying everywhere or force it into areas you don't want it to go.
Get a small glass or plastic jar like a jelly or baby food jar. Pore some liquid WD40 in it. Get yourself a syringe with good long tip on it. If you've seen those 2 to 3 inch long extension type ends for Syringes used for refilling Ink Cartridges, they're helpful in getting the liquid WD40 into specific areas to clean, loosen dirt, and lubricate things such as outside locks that water has gotten to. I've found them to be very useful putting WD40 into many small specific areas.Take the cover off around the key area, which you've' probably already done if you're going to replace all that. That is to avoid contact with the dripping WD40. Draw some WD40 into the syringe, go all around the entire outside area and lubricate where you believe something may be clogged up. You'll find those long extensions tips on the syringe may help you get the WD40 even into the key slot, using the key locked in place itself to channel it in further. Not such a mess if you use the WD40 Spray. Let it sit in there for as long as you can. While your at work or overnight if you have the time. Longer the better but it may work within minutes to hours, all depends on a lot of factors.
Get you some old rags or paper towels to catch dripping WD40. If you do a lot of auto work on your vehicles, especially changing out oil and fluids, I'd suggest going to Sams Club or Walmart buy a box or package of those puppy Dog Training Pads. You'll find that overtime it will save you lot of money instead of using those expensive Blue Shop Towels to catch drips and clean up large fluid spills. Big benefit, they have a plastic lining on one side and absorbent pad on the other. You catch the spills and dripping liquids, wrap it up and throw it in the trash. Save your Walmart plastic bags to put the used pads in. No mess under the pad to clean up like you'll find left behind using blue shop towels or rags. One drawback I found was with Transmission Fluid, not so much with Engine Oils. If there is a heavy concentration of it in one spot of the pad it will start softening and eating the plastic of the pad. Not immediately so be watchful of that when catching any fluid spills other than water.

This of course is suggested if all else fails trying to get the key out. Hope the info helps in this situation. You may find the info useful for future situations where the WD40 may help you. I suggest after using the Syringe put it in a small plastic bag you can seal and store it close to the small jar of WD40, I'm sure over time you'll find another use for it even if it doesn't work in this situation.

 

Still fighting with this. The key is loose in the cylinder

but the cylinder is locked tight between LOCK and ACC and shows no sign of moving. Have tried large quantities of WD40 PTFE, hammering, talking nicely, threatening it, shaking the crap out of it, etc. Interestingly, the steering wheel still turns and the transmission can be shifted, so it is definitely not in lock. And just to add to the fun, somebody who will remain unamed managed to break off the metal tab that fits into the ignition switch on the other side of the column. I figure this will require some real creativity or junkyard prowling to fix.

The GM service manual procedure to remove the cylinder without a key requires taking off most of the dash and dropping the steering column - something I would rather not do.

 

Are there any holes or openings on the outer case around the cylinder through which you can put powdered graphite or at this point possibly PB blaster in case rust / corrosion is holding up some of the tumblers?

Have you tried heating it up with a hair dryer?
I'm hesitant to suggest that since you have solvents in there but I doubt anything would ignite just from surface heat. Anything that's already in there that is. You do run the risk of parching the liquid and leaving additional residue inside the cylinder. But at this point, you may be running out of options.

Also, are you pushing in on the key when you try to rotate it back to off? This is critical to disengaging The mechanism. In normal use, you don't realize you're doing it when you turn the key off but you are pushing on it. Once it gets stuck, it doesn't move in as it did, so you need to push in on it continuously as you try to rotate it.

After all of these years, usually what happens is one of the little tabs used to set the key code in the cylinder gets hung up and bends. From rust, from wear, from dirt, from who knows what. Once it starts binding it destroys itself. In order to rotate it back to off, the jammed piece needs to be moved out of the way, one way or another. Things don't always break in there but I've seen it enough and my trunk lock on my '95 SC2 hasn't worked in over a decade and never will unless I replace it. Can't even put the key in.

 

I'll go after it again today. Your point about pushing in (we did try that) makes me wonder if using a little more persuasion would help. ;-) Because it's not in LOCK (the wheel turns and the transmission shifts) maybe it's wedged against that part of the ignition. I have the new part so I can at least see how things work.

The TSB I mentioned at the top of the thread says that due to a key that is softer than the tumbers, its leaves shavings in the cylinder that wedge up the tumbler pins (right word?) and the cylinder freezes. That looks like what's happened. If you have an original Saturn key that is wearing, replace it.

 

Grabbed a copy of the service manual section for removing the cylinder without a key. We cheated and didn't remove the steering wheel or the column from the car, but did drop the wheel onto the seat. After a lot of head scratching and trial and error, I went after the lock tab with a dremel and drills. Fortunately it's soft metal and after a half hour of attacking it, the cylinder was out. And we should be home free now, EXCEPT for that damn broken tab for the ignition switch. If I could figure out a way to get the broken piece out of the column assembly, I might try JB Weld. But I got this sinking feeling we're going to need a new column assembly from a boneyard. Anyone have an Ignition Module Assembly Housing for a '94 Saturn? They don't seem to be available anywhere.

 

Congrats.
When there's a will, there's a way.
Can you drag a really strong magnet along the bottom of the column while it is laying down on the seat and hopefully attract the broken off tab, then extract it through the nearest opening? I don't know what metal it is so I don't know if it's magnetic. Also don't know if there is enough space to sneak one of those magnetic screw/bolt / socket retrievers down in there to probe around for the missing piece. I've actually even taken flexible thickish wire and back taped it with hockey tape to grab the occasional nasty bitch of a dropped part that was not magnetic.

 

The tab was on the floor. I pulled the Ignition Module Assembly part number 21044585 by drilling out the security bolts. Disassembled that to get the part that links the cylinder to the ignition switch. We're hoping that JB Weld will put it back together to stay.

 

And for now the JB Weld is working. The new cylinder is installed and the whole shooting match is put back together. I'm not impressed with the quality of the generic Rock Auto cylinder, but the car is on the road again.

 

Awesome