Removing frozen bolts???

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by JacktheCat Turkey, Jan 31, 2005.

  1. I'm finally replacing the head gasket on my 95 SW1 SOHC because I'm now
    having to add 1/2 gallon/day in water-(green)antifreeze.
    No "milkshakes" just a good green leak from the front and back of the
    This is a by-the-book (Haynes) job. I can't locate a FSM. The 10mm bolts
    holding the AC compressor bracket to the head are frozen. I've tried
    liquid wrench, a little heat from a propane torch, impact driver
    (hammer). No luck.
    I'm also having problems getting the harmonic balancer pulley bolt off
    too. Yes, i've wedged the pulley and tried a big torque wrench. The book
    says 256lft/lbs. Feels like 500. This is a counterclockwise removal.
    Depression is starting to set in.
    What other tools or gods do I need???

    Jackcat in Tucson.
    JacktheCat Turkey, Jan 31, 2005
  2. JacktheCat Turkey

    blah blah Guest

    Dont use an impact to remove bolts from aluminum! The threads will get
    pulled out with the bolts. Also be carefull with which bolts you apply
    heat to because some have a very specific heat treat. Get a "longer
    ratchet" and make sure your sockets are the warrantied type. (dont use
    12 points)

    The harmonic balancer bolt is threaded like any other. Turn it counter
    clockwise to remove but you will likely need about a 4 foot long
    ratchet/breaker bar (dont use torque wrenches for removal) and someone
    using a tool to hold the flywheel/flexplate. Before you put most of
    these bolts back in put "a little" Anti-Seize on them unless they
    require a locking/sealing compound.
    blah blah, Jan 31, 2005
  3. (JacktheCat Turkey) typed until their fingers bled,
    and came up with:
    use a real impact wrench.
    I had to use an IR Titanium impact to get that one loose. I've done the
    big breaker bar thing, bracing a block of wood in the pulley to keep it
    from spinning, and it is a major PITA. It is torqued to 155 ft lbs -
    the highest torqued fastner on the car.
    Been there, Done that, have the T-shirt
    air tools.
    Kevin M. Keller, Jan 31, 2005
  4. JacktheCat Turkey

    Oppie Guest

    I get a product called Kroil from (only available
    mail-order and internet). I buy a gallon at a time and thoroughly saturate
    all bolts to be removed. Rarely have lost a bolt that way.
    The harmonic balancer can be a bit of a pain to remove but most often just
    needs a serious impact wrench. I had one for $40 that worked ok but the $200
    thunder gun (1/2" drive) is amazing.
    I gave up the propane torch years ago. I have a oxy/acet set now but did use
    mapp gas in a turbo torch for a while. Far better heat output. Aluminum has
    much better heat flow than steel so any heat you put in one area tends to
    flow away unless you use a lot of heat in a small area.
    As with any repair, a general knowledge of how much force you can exert on a
    bolt before it breaks is often learned by experience. Sometimes just
    cracking it loose is only half the battle. Keep adding a good penetrating
    fluid and working the bolt back and forth to remove it without stripping the
    aluminum threads.
    Oppie, Jan 31, 2005
  5. JacktheCat Turkey

    Laz Guest

    The aluminum had a chemical reaction ( galvanic corrosion ) to the steel and
    seized. Try to see if you can get some ammonia to flood the seized bolt ( in
    place of a liquid wrench type product ); this should neutralize the reaction
    and free the bolt. Will do a lot less damage than brute force method.

    Laz, Mar 27, 2005
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