Question about brake noise.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Osgood Z'beard
  • Start date Start date
O

Osgood Z'beard

Hi:

My brakes recently started "rasping" pretty loudly. As I recall there's
some sort of strip embedded in the pads that start doing this to warn
you to replace them soon, so I'm wondering how much "grace" there is
before the pads are completely gone. (I've been using the brakes very
lightly, and mostly slow with compression by downshifting as I'm afraid
to touch them.) I haven't been able to get to the mechanic, so was also
wondering if pad replacement is something I could do myself. I've
replaced drum brakes before, but don't think I've ever replaced a set of
disc pads. Is there anything exotic that would require a mechanic?
I've a 4door Saturn coupe (SL?) that's about 1998 vintage. It has about
60K miles on it.

So, two questions:

1. How much grace do I have?

2. Can I replace the pads myself, or do I need to pay a mechanic?

Anything else that's important, that I haven't thought of?

These usenet groups are a blessing, aren't they? How did we ever get
along without them?

--Scott
 
Your "grace period" is kinda short, because the sound you hear is metal
rubbing on metal. The sooner you change them out, the better you will be.

As for being a "shade tree" fix that you can handle, I would make that a
qualified "yes", assuming you have had experience in doing other cars. When
you compress the brake calipers, make sure you don't overflow the brake
cylinder tank, that that will be a mess.

Also, check the disks carefully for major wear or grooves. Saturn didn't
make these things too thick, and it don't take much damage to force you into
replacing them ...
 
Mike Surwill said:
Your "grace period" is kinda short, because the sound you hear is metal
rubbing on metal. The sooner you change them out, the better you will be.

As for being a "shade tree" fix that you can handle, I would make that a
qualified "yes", assuming you have had experience in doing other cars.
When
you compress the brake calipers, make sure you don't overflow the brake
cylinder tank, that that will be a mess.

Also, check the disks carefully for major wear or grooves. Saturn didn't
make these things too thick, and it don't take much damage to force you
into
replacing them ...
Click to expand...

60k miles is typical.

1-Buy a manual.

Do not let the caliper hang on the brake hose, hang it from the spring with
wire.

The caliper bracket bolts may be rusted and hard to remove, use quality
wrench and watch your knuckles, use nevr-seize for install.

IMHO rotors (discs) should be replaced at every pad replacement. Buy good
quality pads and offshore (cheap) rotors. New rotors are very little more
than the cost of turning your old ones which will leave them thin and likely
to warp and cause chattering and uneven braking.

Make sure the long bolts the caliper slides on are rust free (and clean the
caliper holes) and coat the bolts with a good quality nevr-seize.
 
Osgood said:
Hi:

My brakes recently started "rasping" pretty loudly. As I recall there's
some sort of strip embedded in the pads that start doing this to warn
you to replace them soon, so I'm wondering how much "grace" there is
before the pads are completely gone. (I've been using the brakes very
lightly, and mostly slow with compression by downshifting as I'm afraid
to touch them.) I haven't been able to get to the mechanic, so was also
wondering if pad replacement is something I could do myself. I've
replaced drum brakes before, but don't think I've ever replaced a set of
disc pads. Is there anything exotic that would require a mechanic?
I've a 4door Saturn coupe (SL?) that's about 1998 vintage. It has about
60K miles on it.

So, two questions:

1. How much grace do I have?
Click to expand...
2. Can I replace the pads myself, or do I need to pay a mechanic?

Anything else that's important, that I haven't thought of?

These usenet groups are a blessing, aren't they? How did we ever get
along without them?

--Scott
Click to expand...

Replace them SOON. Saturn disk are easy to change. If you don't have
a manual
there is there is a FAQ site that is part of a Honda group that is very
good.
Honda and Saturn disks or not all that different.See www.tegger.com.
ernie
 
Just some more info to help you. Goto your local auto parts store and pick
up a Haynes manual, it'll help make the job easier and worth the $15.

Also, you can upgrade your brakes for better performance and problably
chaper too. Get Akebono brake pads, they are virtually dust free and grip
better. If you are replacing the discs too, go with Wagner (which is OEM) or
Brembo discs.

marx404
 
I would have to agree with the person telling you to buy a haynes or
chiltons manual. It will walk you through it step by step. All you will
need as far as tools once the wheel is off is an 18mm socket, a 14mm
socket, some extensions, and a ratchet. You also will need to get some
caliper grease and some LOCTITE.

Use the grease on the caliper pins, and use the LOCTITE on the caliper
mounting bracket bolts. Also, make sure you torque them down tight. As
tight as you tighten your lugnuts. If not using loctite and torquing down
good, bad things could happen. But if both steps are taken, good braking
for thousands of miles to come!!!
 
TheLastDonSC2 said:
I would have to agree with the person telling you to buy a haynes or
chiltons manual. It will walk you through it step by step. All you will
need as far as tools once the wheel is off is an 18mm socket, a 14mm
socket, some extensions, and a ratchet. You also will need to get some
caliper grease and some LOCTITE.

Use the grease on the caliper pins, and use the LOCTITE on the caliper
mounting bracket bolts. Also, make sure you torque them down tight. As
tight as you tighten your lugnuts. If not using loctite and torquing down
good, bad things could happen. But if both steps are taken, good braking
for thousands of miles to come!!!
Click to expand...

I have done this job several times. At no time have I seen evidence of the
bracket mounting bolts loosening or losing clamping force. My experience
has been that heat and moisture combine to cause these bolts to corrode and
seize. They require a good wrench with a long handle to remove (especially
the first time). I am a believer in Loctite when needed, but in this
application I use nevr-seize thread lubricant as it increases the clamping
force and prevents further corrosion so the bolts can be removed without
heating the next time removal is required. YMMV.

I am not familiar with the properties of caliper grease but suspect it is
similar to any of the common nevr-seize type thread lubricants. I have had
good service using nevr-seize on the caliper slides and also on the wheel
studs. I apply it to the studs carefully and not to excess before mounting
the wheel. I try not to allow any to get on the cone surface of the nut or
wheel. as always when replacing wheels you MUST recheck bolts torque after
50 miles. YMMV.

just my .02
 
Private said:
I have done this job several times. At no time have I seen evidence of the
bracket mounting bolts loosening or losing clamping force. My experience
has been that heat and moisture combine to cause these bolts to corrode and
seize. They require a good wrench with a long handle to remove (especially
the first time). I am a believer in Loctite when needed, but in this
application I use nevr-seize thread lubricant as it increases the clamping
force and prevents further corrosion so the bolts can be removed without
heating the next time removal is required. YMMV.

I am not familiar with the properties of caliper grease but suspect it is
similar to any of the common nevr-seize type thread lubricants. I have had
good service using nevr-seize on the caliper slides and also on the wheel
studs. I apply it to the studs carefully and not to excess before mounting
the wheel. I try not to allow any to get on the cone surface of the nut or
wheel. as always when replacing wheels you MUST recheck bolts torque after
50 miles. YMMV.

just my .02
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the excellent advice. I got some aftermarket ceramic
pads at NAPA. I have a big breaker-bar wrench, so imagine that should
do the trick along with my sockets and extensions. Don't have the money
to change the rotars right now... you know how it is. Down the read I
may need to replace everything with top-of-the-line stuff, but for the
moment I'm just trying to keep my wheels on the road. Pretty nerve
wracking driving with the hand brake and gear compression, so can't wait
to do the replacement. (I can use the brakes if absolutely necessary,
but am trying not to for the moment.)

Will let you know how it goes.
 
Thanks for all the excellent advice. I got some aftermarket ceramic
pads at NAPA. I have a big breaker-bar wrench, so imagine that should
do the trick along with my sockets and extensions. Don't have the money
to change the rotars right now... you know how it is. Down the read I
may need to replace everything with top-of-the-line stuff, but for the
moment I'm just trying to keep my wheels on the road. Pretty nerve
wracking driving with the hand brake and gear compression, so can't wait
to do the replacement. (I can use the brakes if absolutely necessary,
but am trying not to for the moment.)

Will let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...


You dont need ceramic pads, you're not running 200mph. Buy wearever gold
pads and china made rotors. Pads should be around 30, rotors should be
around 25 each.
 
blah said:
You dont need ceramic pads, you're not running 200mph. Buy wearever gold
pads and china made rotors. Pads should be around 30, rotors should be
around 25 each.
Click to expand...

Well, I bought the cheapest pads they had it Napa. (SAFETY-STOP "with
ceramic formulation") They happened to be $44. Should I take them
back? Where would they have Wearever Gold? I thought rotars were like
$500? If they're only $50 I might as well replace those, and not worry
about scoring the old ones. Seriously, only $25 apiece?
 
I thought rotars were like $500?

I think most people [who don't do the brake work themselves and only take it
to a shop] may think this as well. The rotors that I buy are around $18
from Autozone if I recall correctly. I've noticed no difference between
them either on my daily driver or on my race car and some premium rotors I
used to buy at more than 3x that cost.

Most people would do the rotors at the same time as pads, because often old
rotors are worn full of grooves. If you don't get them resurfaced or
replace them, they'll wear those grooves into your new pads and give you
less-than-optimum braking until they do.

I've been using Napa pads for years (Rayloc lifetime) on the street car with
great results. I love them because there's virtually no brake dust from
them.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
 
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