Possible PCM failure

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by jonathan.engel, Nov 26, 2005.

  1. Recently my 94 SL2 automatic with ABS has been unable to start. The
    problem appeared once, went away, and then reappeared for good a few
    days later. The problem is that the car will turn over and immediately
    die. The engine appears to fire for a few revs, and the tach deflects,
    but will not continue running. I ran some tests based on the Chilton,
    and replaced the IAC based on the faulty specs given in this book.
    This did not help, so I performed some half-cocked diagnostics and
    replaced the crankshaft position sensor as well. No codes in the PCM.
    My nose tells me that fuel is getting in, and my ears tell me that the
    fuel pump is moving. Spark is good at the plugs and coil towers. The
    intake tract and filter is in tip top shape. I clamped off the
    canister purge line without effect so the purge solenoid doesn't seem
    likely. The EGR solenoid tested good as well. After spending a few
    evenings lying on the cold concrete and testing parts in the dark, I
    towed the car to a mechanic who ran his scanner on it and has
    determined that the PCM is bad. I am suspicious of such a claim since
    the PCM is being blamed as a result of a lack of other problem rather
    than a positive test on PCM performance.
    ideas? The dealer is quoting ~$600 for a new PCM and re-program. Is
    the reprogram needed? I can install the PCM myself and get a cheaper
    one as well as long as the reprogram is not required. It is getting
    too cold to keep riding my bike!


    Thanks
    -Jon
     
    jonathan.engel, Nov 26, 2005
    #1
  2. jonathan.engel

    Lane Guest

    I'd be AMAZED if it is the PCM. Was this a Saturn retailer's service
    department that made this diagnosis? If not, then you may want to spring
    for the diagnostic from Saturn. If it saves you from buying one part you
    don't need, then it has paid for itself.

    PCMs come and go on eBay quite a bit, and usually sell for $50 - $100.
    Replacing yours will require that the new one be flashed (re-programmed) so
    that it is aware of your car's options (cruise, traction control, abs,
    tire/wheel size, etc.). You can try it without this, but it probably isn't
    likely that the car it came from had the same options as yours.

    Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
     
    Lane, Nov 27, 2005
    #2
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