Oil filter location?

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike pelak
  • Start date Start date
M

mike pelak

Hey everyone, I am attempting to change the oil on my own for the first
time, and am having difficulty locating the oil filter. I bought a
replacement, but just can't seem to find it in the engine. I have a 2000
Saturn SL1. any help is very much appreciated.

Thanks
Mike
 
And you'll want the front of the car up off the ground. You won't be
able to see it until you are way under the car.
 
It's different Under a Saturn too. :-)

yup, passenger side, waay up behind the axle. You'll definitely need to
raise the car up to make it accessible.
Have fun and don't get any oil on the CV boot, if you do wipe it off, it can
damage it!
 
mjh404 said:
It's different Under a Saturn too. :-)

yup, passenger side, waay up behind the axle. You'll definitely need to
raise the car up to make it accessible.
Have fun and don't get any oil on the CV boot, if you do wipe it off, it can
damage it!
Click to expand...

When I change the oil, I jack up the right front corner, take off the
right front tire, take out the inner fender, put a piece of plastic
(usually an old bread bag) over the tie rod boot, and remove the
filter. Lane has posted about using a plastic bag over the filter to
trap the filter and any spilled oil. I'm trying that next time.

Ken
 
When I change the oil, I jack up the right front corner, take off the
right front tire, take out the inner fender, put a piece of plastic
(usually an old bread bag) over the tie rod boot, and remove the
filter. Lane has posted about using a plastic bag over the filter to
trap the filter and any spilled oil. I'm trying that next time.
Click to expand...

Why all the fuss? Jack up the front of the car (both sides) and set it on
jackstands (do not, repeat DO NOT, leave the car suspended on the jack!). Slide
under, set your catch pan and remove the oil pan drain plug. Let drain for a few
minutes. Then reach up behind the tie rod and unscrew the old filter. Install
the new filter and wipe off the tie rod and frame member with an old rag.
Reinstall drain plug, drop the car, fill with new oil. Total time for oil change
- about ten minutes.

This on a '95 SW1.
 
William Hughes said:
Why all the fuss? Jack up the front of the car (both sides) and set it on
jackstands (do not, repeat DO NOT, leave the car suspended on the jack!). Slide
under, set your catch pan and remove the oil pan drain plug. Let drain for a few
minutes. Then reach up behind the tie rod and unscrew the old filter. Install
the new filter and wipe off the tie rod and frame member with an old rag.
Reinstall drain plug, drop the car, fill with new oil. Total time for oil change
- about ten minutes.

This on a '95 SW1.
Click to expand...

I did do a bit of abbreviation. After jacking the car up I put a
jackstand under the car.

1. I don't like to go under the car unless absolutely necessary. My
back bothers me if I'm on a creeper, so I don't use 1 unless it's the
only way to get the job done. The way I do it I reach in from the side
to get the filter and to get to the drain plug.

2. I let the car drain for a bit longer than a few minutes. If I
have the time, I let it drip out for about 1/2 hour. Why?... Why not?
The longer it drains, the more dirty oil gets drained out. I've
always felt that the dirtiest oil drains out last.

3. Wiping off the tie rod boot (which is what gets oily) is not as
good as preventing the oil getting on the rubber in the first place.

4. I rotate tires at least every other oil change. With air tools
removing the tire isn't a big deal. Remember to use a torque wrench
for final tightening. Recheck tightness after 25 miles.

To each their own, I guess. I just know what works for me.
 
1. I don't like to go under the car unless absolutely necessary. My
back bothers me if I'm on a creeper, so I don't use 1 unless it's the
only way to get the job done. The way I do it I reach in from the side
to get the filter and to get to the drain plug.
Reasonable.

2. I let the car drain for a bit longer than a few minutes. If I
have the time, I let it drip out for about 1/2 hour. Why?... Why not?
The longer it drains, the more dirty oil gets drained out. I've
always felt that the dirtiest oil drains out last.
Click to expand...

Well, yeah. I did a little editing myself. After starting the oil draining, I go
off an mow the lawn, trim some trees, invent a warp drive, little things like
that. Then I go back and button up the car.
3. Wiping off the tie rod boot (which is what gets oily) is not as
good as preventing the oil getting on the rubber in the first place.
Click to expand...

Ok, so put a platic bag over the boot.
4. I rotate tires at least every other oil change. With air tools
removing the tire isn't a big deal. Remember to use a torque wrench
for final tightening. Recheck tightness after 25 miles.
Click to expand...

If you are removing the tires anyway - and have pneumatic equipment - then
disregard everything I said. :)
To each their own, I guess. I just know what works for me.
Click to expand...

Ayup.
 
William said:
Why all the fuss? Jack up the front of the car (both sides) and set it on
jackstands (do not, repeat DO NOT, leave the car suspended on the jack!). Slide
under, set your catch pan and remove the oil pan drain plug. Let drain for a few
minutes. Then reach up behind the tie rod and unscrew the old filter. Install
the new filter and wipe off the tie rod and frame member with an old rag.
Reinstall drain plug, drop the car, fill with new oil. Total time for oil change
- about ten minutes.
Click to expand...

I've never tried it for changing oil in a Saturn, but the drive-up
ramps are good for other stuff and a lot less work (and much more
secure) than jacking. Only problem for changing oil is that the car
will be tilted to the back, which may interfere with draining.
 
I've never tried it for changing oil in a Saturn, but the drive-up
ramps are good for other stuff and a lot less work (and much more
secure) than jacking. Only problem for changing oil is that the car
will be tilted to the back, which may interfere with draining.
Click to expand...

I don't know if I would go so far as to say they are more secure than
jacking......
Maybe when they're up there, but definitly not getting there.

The ramps are a much bigger project then jacking is, every time. Plus, someone
not used to it can drive right off the back of them.......someone not good with
a stickshift will have trouble.....sometimes they like to slide on smooth
concrete floor......nose drags on them(have to run up on a block of wood
first). Throw in a little dew or water on them and you won't get up them
without a fight........

That said, I use the ramps/jack about 50/50......probably because a lot of the
time I'll rotate the tires at the same time, etc. When you jack, make sure you
use jackstands on both sides. Remember you will be *under* the car. Hydraulic
jacks are known to let down. I often don't use a jackstand if I'm not gonna be
actually under the car(which is a bad practice too...) but when you're gonna be
under, DEFINITELY use them!
 
William Hughes said:
Well, yeah. I did a little editing myself. After starting the oil draining, I go
off an mow the lawn, trim some trees, invent a warp drive, little things like
that. Then I go back and button up the car.
Click to expand...

There usually isn't much in the way of politics in here, but since you
mentioned warp drive invention I thought I'd suggest that you contact
Wesley Clark. He's mentioned that one of his priorities as President
would be the development of faster-than-light travel. Who knows,
maybe you could be the real-life Zephram Cochran!

Best Wishes,

Ken Olson
 
I think it may even help to drain more oil because the oil plug is
screwed into the tilted surface, which becomes more horizontally
oriented when the car is tilted to the back.

Jerry
 
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