Need advice on maintaining my '96 SL

I have a '96 SL base model I bought new a decade ago. It has a
manual transmission and AC. It now has 140K on the clock and still
gets me around just fine, and with gas at 3 bucks a gallon, I like the
fact that I get 37 MPG in rush hour highway traffic.

I live in Phoenix, so it has no rust, but has run in extreme heat its
whole life. I do my own maint., it's only been to the dealer a couple
of times. Here is what has been replaced, most since 100K;

Fuel injectors ( it was running crappy and dealer said that was the
problem)

Fuel filter

fuel cap (failed emmisions cap seal test )

Top engine mount

Fan belt

Plugs and wires

front brake pads (once)

coolant temp sensor

2 or 3 air filters

3 windshields

12 tires

4 batteries

Thats it. Of course I drop the oil ever 3-5K, changed the coolant a
few times, and the transaxle fluid twice.

Still on the original rear brake shoes,suspension, clutch, and ALL the
coolant hoses are the originals. I am keeping an eye on them but they
seem fine.

It doesn't leak or burn any oil.

I was thinking of milking this car a few more years if possible.

What do you think I should replace as PM? What do you think might go
out soon considering the high mileage?


Thanks for the input!

Larry

 

I do not see tranny fluid change on list for manual gear box (it
should have been changed at least twice now) and I would not use 5w30
down there in a new or old engine. I would use 10w30 minimum. There is
a lot of argue ment about them being the same at high temps but they
are not because 5w30 has more VI (viscocity improver) than 10w30 that
added nothing to lubrication abilties and become more unstable at
higher temps than 10w30 does. Also one more tip, make sure you cahnge
oil often as miles rack up because as engine wears a bit the oil gets
dirty sooner and keeping oil cleaner will extend life of even a worn
engine.

 

I remember when I first bought it the dealer said they use 10w30 in
Phoenix, not the 5w30. I have always used the oil "on tap" at the heavy
equipment place I work at, which is Chevron Delo 15w/40 HDdiesel oil. The
Chevron guys said they use it in all their salesman's small cars and it is
the best non-synthetic motor oil you will find. It sure proved to work fine
in my car so far at 140K.

Larry

 

Sounds like you are getting good service and giving your car good
maintenance. I do think that 5K is too long on the oil and personally use
3-3,500 mi. As engines wear they pass more blowby and oil will be
contaminated quicker even if they are not actually burning any. Oil is
cheap maintenance. I use 5w30 but in your climate I would consult your
dealer service manager for recommendation and would think that 10w30 may be
better (and cheaper) If most of your driving is short trips then I would
stay with 5w30 but if most is longer trips then 10w30 makes more sense if
you ensure that you take it easy on startup by allowing it to idle for at
least 1 minute on startup to allow the thicker oil to get to the timing
chain and valve gear and also to limit engine speed until the engine is
completely warm.

You do seem to go through a lot of tires but I have no information about the
quality of the tires you are purchasing or of your desire to use tires that
are half new vs. half left. I suggest you may want to raise your tire
pressures and suggest you talk to your tire supplier. I have had good
service using 32 lbs pressure all around, and sometimes slightly higher in
the summer if I am heavily loaded. Tire pressure is especially important in
hot weather. Tread wear pattern is a good way to determine if the pressure
is right for your loading and service. If tires wear first on the edges
then pressure is too low and if wear is mainly in the center then pressure
is (slightly) too high. Higher pressure will also stiffen up the ride and
give better fuel consumption.

I have also experienced more windshield rock damage than I would like and
can only speculate that it is due to the cars low height and low fenders and
windshield angle, which are good for fuel consumption but seems to result in
catching rocks.

You do not say that you replaced rotors when you did the front pads. I do
not believe in resurfacing rotors and normally install new (offshore cheap)
rotors when replacing pads. Expect to replace rotors on your next pad
replacement.

You location is very dry so you probably do not have much of a problem with
moisture in your brake fluid but it is cheap to change, and now would be a
good time as you are at the cars half life and a change now will last the
remaining life of the car. Just empty the reservoir then refill with brake
fluid from a new and UNOPENED container then start at the farthest wheel and
bleed the brakes with the help of a friend. A good time to do this is when
you are rotating your tires as it is a lot easier when the wheels are off.

Many people in hot climates seem to report alternator failures at low
mileage. There is not anything you can or should do about it except not to
be too surprised if you have a failure. You have also replaced a lot of
batteries which could also be due to your hot climate, but if I was your
friend I would be asking you for your old batteries (and tires).

I would also remove the ignition coils and clean all the mounting surfaces
and bolts and reinstall using dielectric grease on the bolts and mounting
surfaces and electrical connectors. I think a lot of good coil packs are
replaced because of poor electrical connection and mounting corrosion.

I would not consider this a high mileage car and think that with continued
good maintenance and a home in your dry climate that this car is only at its
half life point and can continue to give you good economical service for
many more years, (if you don't hit anything or get hit). Keep you foot off
the clutch, your rpms low and practice progressive shifting.

Good luck, YMMV

 

The extreme heat out here seems to cook tires. The belts usually
come apart before the tread is worn out. The first set of skins I
bought were fairly cheap at a Discount Tire chain. They have a
warranty program that gets me replacement tires for about 20 bucks
each time I have a tire get damaged from road hazzards or the belts
come unglued. It may not be 12 tires I've replaced, but it is at
least 9-10. they usually go a few years and start to come apart, so I
run it over to Discount and they put on a new one for 20 bucks. There
is supposed to be a limit to the warranty, but I have never been
refused warranty replacement on a tire since buying the original set
100K miles ago.


Most batteries only go a couple of years out here, even the 72 month
kind. They just get boiled in summer.

Larry

 

This tire warranty sounds very cost effective. Normally I do not like tire
or battery warranties because they charge full retail minus prorated
wear/age for the replacement which often ends up being more than I would
have to pay by just buying smart or wholesale. I have heard that the
extreme heat in the south USA is hard on batteries and tires and I think
that plus the low tire pressures specified (to get a soft ride) for the Ford
Explorer SUVs was the cause of most of the tire failures a couple of years
ago.

I am interested that you have not had alternator problems as many in hot
climates do report this. Your proper replacement of your batteries when
required may be the reason you have not needed to replace an alternator.
Here in Canada we usually learn the hard way that a poor battery often
causes a starter to burn out in the first cold snap of winter. We find the
best way to cope with winter is to make sure we have good tires and
batteries in the fall.

From the sound of your posts you have a good handle on the maintenance you
need in your area. Doing the work yourself saves you LOTS of money but also
keeps you aware of how your car is aging and where it needs some help.
Doing the work yourself also means you do not become prey to the repair
robbers..

Good luck, YMMV

 

Replace your Coolant Temperature Sensor. It's only $9 at AutoZone, and
can save you a whole lot of hassle later on. I think they generally
have a 100,000 mile life.

You'll have to let out a lot of engine coolant, so its good to do at a
coolant interval change. (You've been doing that, right? Saturns seem
to corrode away their heater core... Not that you'd need one where you
are!) Probably wouldnt hurt to wrap the threads with a little teflon
tape when you install it. You'll need a deep 10mm socket - start it
with your fingers first.

The funny thing with Saturns is that the guage on the dash is not the
related to the sensor the "engine computer" sees... that's a different
sensor. So if it looks like the engine is running hot, the computer
might not THINK SO since it uses a different sensor (which fails "open"
or high resistance - the results being that the engine "seems" to be
much cooler than it actually is).

 

On the oil - call me a rebel or moron, but based on recommendation of
my grandfather I go to using straight 30w in the summer.
With 30w, there are no thermal modifiers to break down.
If your car is already at 80 degrees, the oil is quite thin enough for
the starting requirements of the engine.. Of course, once it drops
down into the 60s you should start using 10-30 again. (I wish I could
find 20-30W)
I've been doing this for 20 years and have yet to develop bearing or
ring problems on any car or truck I've used straight 30 in.

Tranny oil should be replaced every 30 to 50k miles. Odd thing to me -
you use Automatic Transmission Fluid instead of gear oil. The filler
is a rubber latch plug on the transmission casting "shoulder" right
ahead of and below the brake master cylinder. The drain is not too
hard to find - its the only drain fitting on the bottom of the
transmission.

 

I would not use 15w40 in a small engine unless it is worn a good bit.
It will decrease your MPG some due to increased shearing forces. 15w40
is a good oil but it does not belong in a nice tight 4 cylinder except
maybe when temps are above 100 degrees a lot.