lower control arm '93

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by user, Oct 12, 2003.

  1. user

    user Guest

    Does anyone have any tricks up their sleeve to free up a
    cradle-to-control arm bolt? I got the nut off, but am unable to get the
    bolt to come out of the cradle/frame. Are there any special tools for
    this? I think it is so stuck/corroded to the inner sleeve control arm
    bushing that I believe a press of some sort is needed. This little job's
    getting the best of me.

    Also am still wondering if Saturn uses some sort of loctite on the jam
    nut that locks the tie rod ends to the threaded shaft linkage? I could
    not get the tie rod jam nuts free on either side. Not having a real
    great time of this as you can probably surmise!

    Hopefully TIA - CB
     
    user, Oct 12, 2003
    #1
  2. user

    user Guest

    Just realized that Sears did my last 4 wheel alignment and that they
    very likely may have put loctite on those jam-nuts. So I know that
    somewhere I have a propane torch.......

    Still hoping for advice on that cradle bolt. Thanks, I hope... CB
     
    user, Oct 12, 2003
    #2
  3. user

    Mike Martin Guest

    I had to cut mine off with a dremal tool. After trying and soaking in
    penetrating oil for 2 days, I still had no luck. I attempted to create some
    tool to pull/press out the bolt, but there just is not room. I also tried to
    torch it but other than the rubber bushing catching on fire it did not
    budge. I cut each bushing one by one very carefully.
     
    Mike Martin, Oct 12, 2003
    #3
  4. user

    user Guest

    Hi Mike,

    I am EXACTLY where you were. Soaked the bugger all weekend with trying
    everything to put some pressure on the bolt while trying to back it out
    at the same time. Tried this with a cantilevered C-Clamp which did not
    help. Tried an impact driver on the end of the bolt, again nothing. I
    spent hours & hours trying to break it free by using a breaker bar and
    socket as well as drive punches. I can't believe that my whole weekend
    was spent trying to get that out <"$#@&*("> bolt out and could not. The
    other side was clean as a whistle. Figures.

    Having remembered your earlier post regarding this, I did dig out my
    dremel tool late this afternoon & did a dry run on the one control arm I
    did get out. A while back I saw & picked up some heavy duty cut-off
    discs, in Walmart I think, specifically for these dremel tools and man
    they really held up. In fact I didn't even break one of them while
    cutting up that one control arm. I can see that this is, most
    definitely, the way the little bastard is coming out tomorrow!!!! I
    thank you for this tip, as absolutely nothing else at my disposal will
    get it done. I really wonder how the Saturn mechanics get them out.
    Thanks again Mike - CB
     
    user, Oct 13, 2003
    #4
  5. user

    Mike Martin Guest

    Good luck - Keep a steady hand so as not to nick the bolt box on the frame.
    You'll have to do some fancy work as you get close to each end where the arm
    and bushings sit inside the box, but a careful steady hand and it took me
    about 30-45 minutes to cut one side off. After I was done I cursed myself
    for not having got to it sooner. As you say, wasted 2 days. - Well sort
    of - I was changing the clutch and shocks at the same time, so I would
    re-spray the control arm, let it sit while I worked elsewhere, and keep
    giving it another try. When all other jobs were wrapped up, that was it,
    that control arm was coming out one way or another :-|

    Which side was (is) corroded. Mine was the right side. Just wondering if the
    road spray patterns under the car leads to one side being more problematic
    than the other?
     
    Mike Martin, Oct 13, 2003
    #5
  6. user

    user Guest

    I hope to score that inner sleeve enough to crack it, hopefully to not
    damage the bolt. Getting the control arm metal off and the rubber out,
    or mostly out, may expose the sleeve so that I might be better able to
    un-freeze the bugger.

    The problem control arm side is the driver side. I also noticed the
    engine cradle is much more rusted on this driver side, probably where
    the snow and slush hits it most. Not great seeing this!

    Anyway, as you say, this thing is coming out! Thanks - CB
     
    user, Oct 13, 2003
    #6
  7. user

    user Guest

    Hey Mike,

    That last lower control arm bolt is out. The dremel did it's thing
    except I couldn't get close to the frame bracket to really get that last
    inner bushing sleeve too well. I first cut the arm right in the middle
    and knocked one half of the control arm off the sway bar. Got the ball
    joint out and then proceeded with the problem end near the frame. What
    an absolute bugger! With just the sleeve fused to the bolt I applied the
    propane to it and that didn't free it up. After a few hours of banging
    the hell out of it and using what I thought might work and didn't, I
    then found an old small pipe wrench that bit into the dremel cuts I made
    on the sleeve and worked a breaker bar & 6 sided hardened socket to
    put pressure onto the bolt/sleeve. The pipe wrench held in place by the
    frame. It finally broke. I still had to work it to get it free enough to
    drive it out by consistently turning the bolt and putting additional
    pressure against the other end of the bolt to drive it out. By the time
    I got the bolt out, it's threads were damaged. So I need to get that
    bolt first thing and wrap this episode up. I am hurting all over, from
    one lousy bolt!

    Again, thanks Mike for the dremel tip. I could not have done job this
    without using it. CB
     
    user, Oct 14, 2003
    #7
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.