How to Replace a Horn

My 96 SL2 horn started blaring while sitting in the garage in early April.
Saturn had a recall for this many years back in the US, but my dealer in
Canada know nothing about it.

So I bought a new horn thinking I'd at least cheat them out of installing
it. Last night I decided it was time to do the deed, and like the toilet
salesman, I'm flushed with success.

First job was to remove the headlight assembly so I could reach the horn. I
had read about the procedure on some web site so I knew what to look for,
sort of. I had to do some detective work to find the right bolts. There are
two of them, one high, one low.

Once I found the two 10 mm fasteners I removed them and the headlamp
assembly lifted out of the way, and hung by its wires. I touched the plug to
the old horn and it was still stuck.

Now I could see the horizontal 10 mm fastener holding the horn in place. It
wasn't difficult to remove, except I could only take small turns because of
the narrow opening. I took off the old horn was and fastened the new one in,
complete with mounting bracket. I put the power connector on and no blare,
so I was on the right track. Then I hit the horn button and it worked! Last
job was to put the headlamp assembly back.

So it's quite easy, a 10 mm box end, a small extension, a ratchet with a 10
mm socket and you're in business.

I haven't blown a horn in anger for three months, so don't get in my way!

 

That does not quite make sense.
The horn is grounded to chassis and a single terminal goes to the horn relay
that switches the horn to battery. One side of the horn relay coil goes to
battery and the other side to the horn button which is switched to ground by
the horn button. The situation is muddled somewhat by any alarm that will
chirp the horn. That aside, the usual troubleshooting method begins with
removing the horn relay and seeing if that silences the horn...

So you have the mechanics of changing the horn down but I suspect that you
did not really fix the root problem. Like the terminator, it will be back.

 

I'm no expert, but I think this is how it works: the horn contains the
relay, so changing the horn is actually changing the horn AND relay. If a
relay sticks in the on position the horn will sound continuously. I suspect
that is what happened with the Saturn horns subject to the recall. Having
the relay integrated into the horn is also why the damn thing costs $75. You
can go to your local automotive supply store and get an identical Fiamm
horn, sans relay, for $15.

The new horn has a potted rectangular component attached to it which I
suspect contains the new relay apparatus. Of course, it's not an
electromagnetic relay, must be some solid state device which performs the
same function.

So, I don't expect the problem will be back.

 

actually, I like those horns that blow the rear window out of the car in
front

Laz

 

Could be...
I don't recall that you mentioned the vehicle type. Mine is a '01 lw300
which does have a horn relay. Granted that the L series is not the usual
Saturn, having been designed by Opel in Germany.
In any event, best of luck - Oppie

 

96 SL2, the first line of my post. Yes, the 300 series was a "mail order"
design. Sometimes that's a good thing, sometimes not. I guess Saturn is
relying on their own resources now.

 

That's why I put a set of $24.95 Fiamm's on my son's '96 SL2.

Ken

 

saturn s-series is economy class car, there is only one horn on the
vehicle.
if the horn goes off and stay on one night there are two possible causes
1 - the horn pads shrinks on cold ambient temp and ground path to the
horn.
2 - the horn itself shorted out which is very possible.

the horn relay from saturn hardly cause trouble. only if replace with
after market
relay and then trouble will present when the relay coil get weak or the
switching in the
relay could stuck on when use.