Finally got the codes-any ideas?

M

mrichards

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Finally got around to having the codes read and below is the history. The symptoms I have been having are the sevice eng. light coming on for awhile during a trip. Sometimes, not each time the light came on, the eng. would skip or misfire, I would get a whiff of raw gas briefly in the car. The sevice eng.light would go out and maybe not come on for another day or so. Gas mileage has suffered also. Below is the exact code as printed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA, MR Vehicle Scanned 1997 SL1 7=1 . 9L PFI

Set DTCs (codes)

History DTC P0203
Injector Circuit
Open
Cylinder 3
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0303
Cylinder 3
Misfire Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0503
System Voltage
Low

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1599
Engine Stall Or
Near Stall Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1624
PCM RAM
Performance

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0605
PCM
Read Only Memory
(ROM) Error
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0656
Fuel Level
Output
Circuit Malfunction
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F
 
Cylinder #3 Injector circuit open. Look for a open coil on the injector, a flaky connection or dammaged wire.Trace the connections all the way back to the ECU (which drives the injectors). could be intermittent which will drive you crazy. Many of the other codes may be related to one cylinder not working because of no fuel.

The other thing that stands out is low system voltage. check that your battery voltage is about 12V engine off and 13.8V engine running.

The ROM error and fuel circuit error may be related to low battery issues.
(just a wild guess)

Oppie

Finally got around to having the codes read and below is the history. The symptoms I have been having are the sevice eng. light coming on for awhile during a trip. Sometimes, not each time the light came on, the eng. would skip or misfire, I would get a whiff of raw gas briefly in the car. The sevice eng.light would go out and maybe not come on for another day or so. Gas mileage has suffered also. Below is the exact code as printed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA, MR Vehicle Scanned 1997 SL1 7=1 . 9L PFI

Set DTCs (codes)

History DTC P0203
Injector Circuit
Open
Cylinder 3
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0303
Cylinder 3
Misfire Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0503
System Voltage
Low

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1599
Engine Stall Or
Near Stall Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1624
PCM RAM
Performance

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0605
PCM
Read Only Memory
(ROM) Error
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0656
Fuel Level
Output
Circuit Malfunction
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F
 
Cylinder #3 Injector circuit open. Look for a open coil on the injector, a flaky connection or dammaged wire.Trace the connections all the way back to the ECU (which drives the injectors). could be intermittent which will drive you crazy. Many of the other codes may be related to one cylinder not working because of no fuel.

The other thing that stands out is low system voltage. check that your battery voltage is about 12V engine off and 13.8V engine running.

The ROM error and fuel circuit error may be related to low battery issues.
(just a wild guess)

Oppie
Click to expand...

Snip
Thanks a bunch for the info.
The low voltage may have been due to a bad belt that I changed just before Christmas. The belt was starting to squeel and was hard and cracked when I replaced it. The gas mileage returned to near normal after replacing the belt which was a mystery, but now has dropped somewhat again. I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset the codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal? Thanks again, MR
 
I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset the codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
Click to expand...

Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things too, things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the stereo).

The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read them. You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.
 
Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things too, things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the stereo).

The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read them. You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll stop by and have them do that.
MR
 
Simple ECU code reset on the L-series is by pulling the Controls B+ fuse for 10 seconds from the uhfp (Under hood fuse panel). Can't say if that will also work with any other model. Harbor freight has a very simple code reader that will also reset codes http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=code+reader

I'd prefer a scan tool that reads data streams but those are **much** more expensive. Still at the prices for the simple readers (About cost of a tank of gas), are within everybody's reach.

btw - if you are 'allergic' to repair shops, by all means obtain a shop manual for your vehicle or buy a subscription to www.Alldata.com Both are well worth the investment and even if you don't do your own repairs, gives you enough background to make informed choices.

Oppie
 
I checked the wires on no. 3 injector which the code pointed to and all looked good from the top end. I noticed that the wires were resting on top of a bolt that has sharp edges which is on the fuel rail. After removing the elect. plug from the injector and looking under the wires I found a worn/burned spot in one of the wires and looked as if it had been arcing. Taped the wires good and put some rtv on bolt head to smooth it over. I guess that was what was causing the misfire and gas smell and perhaps the drop in gas milage. Many thanks for the direction Oppie. Saved me a ton of time and money. I do have a set of manuals and use them for disassembly etc. mostly, but have not helped me much on trouble shooting. Can't beat experience when it comes to that. Many thanks again, MR
 
Glad to help! I've done these sort of wire chaffing repairs in the past. I usually am a bit more thorough in that I either apply a shrink sleeve over the chaffed wires (requires cutting and splicing) or apply a good coating of RTV, let it dry for a few hours and then tape over. Degrease wires before using RTV or it won't stick. Tape has a way of coming off and letting in grunge that will rot the conductors. Granted that I'm a bit obsessive but I used to work on Military electonics. Would really mess with your day if some of that stuff went wrong.

Oppie

I checked the wires on no. 3 injector which the code pointed to and all looked good from the top end. I noticed that the wires were resting on top of a bolt that has sharp edges which is on the fuel rail. After removing the elect. plug from the injector and looking under the wires I found a worn/burned spot in one of the wires and looked as if it had been arcing. Taped the wires good and put some rtv on bolt head to smooth it over. I guess that was what was causing the misfire and gas smell and perhaps the drop in gas milage. Many thanks for the direction Oppie. Saved me a ton of time and money. I do have a set of manuals and use them for disassembly etc. mostly, but have not helped me much on trouble shooting. Can't beat experience when it comes to that. Many thanks again, MR
 
Right on the elec. connections. I have had a some real PIA elect. failures on travel trailer brakes. I used the shrink tubing and rtv on those when I did a complete brake job. I would have done a little better job on the injector wires, but there was not very much wire length from wiring harness to plug on injector which is what caused the worn spot in the first place. Also, no. 3 is a bitch of an area to get to and could only work with my finger tips since my hands are a little to large to get in that area without removing the throttle cable. Many thanks again for your input.
MR
 
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