Disk Brake Rotor Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter BCopeMantu
  • Start date Start date
B

BCopeMantu

94 SW1
After 114k, I have decided to replace the Pads and Rotors. Pads worn and the
Rotor is missing metal.
However, the rotor will not come off the hub. I have tried everything
including a sledge hammer.
Any ideas?
TIA
Bryan Cope
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Do your rotors have the 3 threaded offset holes, in between the 5 main wheel
studs? If so, you put 3 appropriate threaded bolts into these holes and
tighten in sequence a little at a time (1/4 turn or so) until the disc comes
loose. Give it a few whacks after each tighten sequence. Spray lots of
penetrating oil around the stud holes and the centring hole.
 
Only 4 studs. No other threaded holes.
I am going to get a gear puller.

Do your rotors have the 3 threaded offset holes, in between the 5 main wheel
studs? If so, you put 3 appropriate threaded bolts into these holes and
tighten in sequence a little at a time (1/4 turn or so) until the disc comes
loose. Give it a few whacks after each tighten sequence. Spray lots of
penetrating oil around the stud holes and the centring hole.
Click to expand...


Bryan Cope
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....before the rest of San Diego county goes up in flames I just took a
second look at this thread - I have front rotors rear drums on a 97SL2. On
my front rotors I move the caliper off the bracket and the rotor slips
ff - the wheel sandwiches the rotor between the wheel and the hub. What
am I missing?
 
Had the same problem, years of driving in the rust belt took its toll.
Tried penetrating oil then big hammer with no luck.

What finally worked was to heat the rotor with a plain old propane
torch. Don't heat it too much, you don't want to damage anything
else. After it was fairly warm a few taps loosened it up.

After it's off, take the rust off with fine sandpaper and it won't
happen again.



Jim
 
If I was doing it, I'd take Mike's advice. A gear puller may
inadvertently warp your rotor. Plus it's cheaper than getting a puller.
Each to their own, but I had one 'stick' on my 93 and mine actually
'broke' free after one turn of the first bolt I had turned. Good luck.
 
You've probably thought of this already, but make
sure that the inboard caliper pistons aren't hanging up
before you replace the rotors. I've heard it's not an uncommon
problem, and it's one I had with my SC2. Fortunately,
Autozone sells loaded rebuilt calipers for about $85.00--
a real good deal.

-D-
 
Only 4 studs. No other threaded holes.
I am going to get a gear puller.
Click to expand...

Try holding outward pressure on the rotor while tapping the studs with a
hammer. Make sure you put the lugnuts on somewhat flush with the end so you
don't damage the stud when you do this. It should take it right off.
 
I hope your home is still standing.
What you miss in the west is the rust of the midwest and ohio.
...before the rest of San Diego county goes up in flames I just took a
second look at this thread - I have front rotors rear drums on a 97SL2. On
my front rotors I move the caliper off the bracket and the rotor slips
ff - the wheel sandwiches the rotor between the wheel and the hub. What
am I missing?
Click to expand...

Bryan Cope
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Yes we're still here and should be fine (thanks) - it got within a couple
miles of my Mom's house on Sunday and has since passed. My job is closed
again today and so are the non-essential city departments. We're supposed
to stay off the main freeways too. My Saturn is covered in fine ash.

Interesting web coverage and video at:

http://www.ktla.com (Los Angeles)
http://www.thesandiegochannel.com (San Diego)
 
Hey there, to change your front rotors on a Saturn you have to first remove the
caliper, than the old pads from the caliper cradle, once those are out of the way
you need a 17 mm socket so you can take out the two bolts from the caliper
cradle, once this is off than the rotor should come off with ease, if it doesn't
than u may need to tap it with a hammer to get it off... but you have to get the
caliper cradle off before the rotor will even come off... I have done alot of
brake changes to Saturns since I own two and my dad and sis own one as well.
 
Erik said:
Hey there, to change your front rotors on a Saturn you have to first remove the
caliper, than the old pads from the caliper cradle, once those are out of the way
you need a 17 mm socket
Click to expand...

Um, 18 mm, Sparky!
 
Well, it is good to know that I was doing everything correctly. I have had no
problem getting the calipers and the cradle off. All I am seeing is a roter
and 4 studs. These front disks are assembled like the Dodges I have done in
the past. And yes it is an 18 mm socket to get the caliper cradle off.

However, do you have any advise on the 'tap' with hammer? what size of hammer
have you used?

I have tried dead blow and 20 lb sledge with no success. this has been in
conjuction with heat from a propane torch, a gear puller, and lots of
penatrating oil.

As I said, I cannot get the rotor off the hub. I am presumming, then, that
from your experience, the rotor is not bolted to the hub? (Y/N)

Thanks
,>
Hey there, to change your front rotors on a Saturn you have to first remove
the
caliper, than the old pads from the caliper cradle, once those are out of the
way
you need a 17 mm socket so you can take out the two bolts from the caliper
cradle, once this is off than the rotor should come off with ease, if it
doesn't
than u may need to tap it with a hammer to get it off... but you have to get
the
caliper cradle off before the rotor will even come off... I have done alot of
brake changes to Saturns since I own two and my dad and sis own one as well.
Click to expand...


Bryan Cope
remove *nojunk* to email
 
Well, it is good to know that I was doing everything correctly. I have had no
problem getting the calipers and the cradle off. All I am seeing is a roter
and 4 studs. These front disks are assembled like the Dodges I have done in
the past. And yes it is an 18 mm socket to get the caliper cradle off.

However, do you have any advise on the 'tap' with hammer? what size of hammer
have you used?

I have tried dead blow and 20 lb sledge with no success. this has been in
conjuction with heat from a propane torch, a gear puller, and lots of
penatrating oil.

As I said, I cannot get the rotor off the hub. I am presumming, then, that
from your experience, the rotor is not bolted to the hub? (Y/N)
Click to expand...

Did you try what I said? That is, put lugnuts on the studs and tapping the
studs with a hammer?
 
My humble appoligies as I lost count of what I have tried: Yes, I tapped on the
lugnuts.

I
Did you try what I said? That is, put lugnuts on the studs and tapping the
studs with a hammer?
Click to expand...


Bryan Cope
remove *nojunk* to email
 
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