dielectric grease- why isn't it ALWAYS used in elec repairs?

Discussion in 'Saturn L-series' started by misterfact, Nov 3, 2005.

  1. misterfact

    misterfact Guest

    I've never had an electric splice corrode and fail when I've covered it
    with dielectric grease.

    Why don't ALL electricians use it all the time? Is it that some of them
    WANT the connection to fail so you'll go back for another repair?

    I put it on spark plug-wire connection; twisted electric wire
    connections before covering with a wire nut; etc.

    The same goes for regular grease or anti-seize on auto lugnuts, brake
    caliper bleed valves, etc. Do SOME mechanics fail to use it so you
    can't remove the tire, bleed valve, etc- YOUSELF and are forced to go
    back to a mechanic to do the job over?

    ?????
     
    misterfact, Nov 3, 2005
    #1
  2. misterfact

    Steve Mackie Guest

    Might just be laziness, might be shop cost control. I know I use all
    mentioned products when I work on a vehicle, and I know every mechanic I've
    ever gone to never did.

    Industrial Mechanics and other commercial professionals use anti-sieze and
    dielectric grease everywhere. Maybe it's the "throw it away when it's worn
    out" mentality of the auto industry.

    Steve
     
    Steve Mackie, Nov 3, 2005
    #2
  3. misterfact

    James1549 Guest

    It comes down to material costs and labor costs.

    James
     
    James1549, Nov 4, 2005
    #3
  4. Is the latter even allowed under NFPA 70?
     
    Philip Nasadowski, Nov 4, 2005
    #4
  5. misterfact

    RK Henry Guest

    Years ago, no one used grease, not even the manufacturers. Dielectric
    grease didn't exist and regular grease would just make a big mess,
    degrading rubber parts. How many current mechanics started their
    careers at that time? How many of them learned their craft by watching
    the old guys. You still hear it, "Sonny, I've been doing it this way
    since before you were BORN!"

    There are mechanics who keep up with new technology--a few. There are
    so many more who do not. I've read articles lamenting those repair
    shops that are no longer able to service new cars because they don't
    have scanners. My sister spent a wad of money on needless repairs
    because the shop didn't bother, or know how, to get the data from the
    computer. The car told me that it was a bad TPS. That could have been
    tried first. I've known a lot of people who have run up huge repair
    bills because the shop starts with replacing the PCM computer first
    and successively replaces every component in descending cost order
    until they either fix it or you run out of money.

    Anti-sieze on lugnuts is is specifically prohibited by some
    manufacturers. On these cars, the published lug torque is predicated
    on dirty, sticky lugs. Putting anti-sieze on these fasteners may allow
    your torque wrench to apply too much torque. I've seen the results of
    that, you can break lugs or the lugs can chew into the wheel. Some
    manufacturers specify anti-sieze on spark plugs, others prohibit it.
    You gotta read the manual. However, most mechanics I've encountered
    seem to have an aversion to reading. I gusss stopping to look stuff up
    cuts into work time. One, commenting on my copy of the service manual,
    told me, "The best thing you can do with that is to throw it away!"

    RK Henry
     
    RK Henry, Nov 4, 2005
    #5
  6. misterfact

    Freddo Guest

    I solder the connections and cover with heat-shrink tubing. Never had
    a problem and don't need grease.

    An alternative is crimp connectors, another gas-tight method.
     
    Freddo, Nov 4, 2005
    #6
  7. misterfact

    Private Guest

    I would be interested to know which mfgs PROHIBIT the use of anti seize
    tread lubricant on wheel lug bolts.

    I agree that anti seize should not be used on the tapered cone of the wheel
    or the nut (or on the flat surface under some aluminum wheel nuts) which is
    difficult to avoid unless the anti seize is applied sparingly and brushed
    evenly BEFORE the wheel is placed on the studs.

    Some torque specifications refer to cleaned and oiled threads but I have
    NEVER heard of a mfgr basing specs on dirty or corroded threads which would
    be inconsistent over a wide range of conditions. Some mfgs require a
    reduction of 10% if thread lubricant is used instead of oil and an increase
    of 10% if threads are CLEAN and dry. The same clamping force can be
    achieved using tread lubricant (instead of oil) and lower torque. It is
    important not to overtorque when using tread lubicant as bolt stretch can
    result.

    IMHO if the treads are not cleaned and at least oiled then the clamping
    force will be VERY inconsistant and there will be a STRONG likelyhood that
    the wheel will loosen and destroy the wheel tapered cones under the nuts.
    Ungreased nuts are also VERY likely to seize on the studs if operated in
    any area where salt is used on roads or where there is a lot of moisture.
    This will often cause studs to seize or break when removal is attempted,
    this will always happen when you need to change a tire at night in a storm.

    Always check the mounting torque after driving 50 miles or so after mounting
    any wheel for any reason including a flat repair. This is particularly
    important if the wheels have been repainted.

    I wish that mfgrs would use antiseize thread lube on ALL fasteners (except
    some engine internals).

    Some
    Most (if not all) mfgrs require the use of some type of antiseize compound
    on aluminum heads. This is to prevent the aluminum threads from seizing to
    the iron plugs and tearing out when the plugs are removed causing a very
    expensive repair. IMHO other than overtorquing causing tread damage I
    cannot imagine a situation where high temp never seize would cause a problem
    but YMMV.
    No disagreement here.

    However, most mechanics I've encountered
    While we would like to think that the manual is always correct,
    unfortunately, IMHO this is not always the case and too often the manual
    (especially aftermarket manuals) is just plain wrong. Often errors can be
    due to translation. It all depends on the quality control of the manual.
    Manuals printed in the first year of a new model are particularly suspect.

    Just my .02, YMMV
     
    Private, Nov 5, 2005
    #7
  8. misterfact

    RK Henry Guest

    That would be Cadillac, for one. They say that you should not put
    lubricant on lugs or nuts. The reason they give is that the specified
    torque would then result in too much stress on the part.

    I notice that Saturn just says to clean rust and dirt from the lugs,
    not saying anything about lubrication. I interpret that to mean no
    lubrication, since lubrication isn't mentioned, but that if you use it
    you probably won't break anything. I suppose that might be because the
    Saturn lugs are smaller and the torque specs lower so lubrication
    doesn't make that much difference.

    RK Henry
     
    RK Henry, Nov 6, 2005
    #8
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