Dead Horn

  • Thread starter Thread starter robxr4ti
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robxr4ti

All,

My wife has a 96 SC2 that the horn stopped working abruptly. This has
happend before and magically fixed itself. The fuse is good and I've
swapped relays. Any thoughts?
 
All,

My wife has a 96 SC2 that the horn stopped working abruptly. This has
happend before and magically fixed itself. The fuse is good and I've
swapped relays. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...


IMHO,

I would directly test the horn. Meaning, take a lead (fused) over to
the horn from the positive terminal (I've used fused block in the past
too), to the horn. If it sounds, I would rule out the horn, and check
for loose connections.

hth,

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com
 
I agree with Tom, same thing has happenned with my '02 SC2. FIAMM makes the
horn and it can easily be replaced with an exact or better horn made by the
same company bought from any auto parts store. I have since replaced my OEM
horn with the "freeway blaster" version by FIAMM, I sure get noticed by
ignoramuses in SUVs who dont look before switching lanes!

marx404
 
marx404 said:
I agree with Tom, same thing has happenned with my '02 SC2. FIAMM makes the
horn and it can easily be replaced with an exact or better horn made by
the
same company bought from any auto parts store. I have since replaced my
OEM
horn with the "freeway blaster" version by FIAMM, I sure get noticed by
ignoramuses in SUVs who dont look before switching lanes!

marx404
Click to expand...

I must admit to some confusion. The OP stated that they had tested the
relay but AFAIK the only relay in the horn circuit is contained inside the
horn unit. From memory and without checking, the horn connector has three
wires (hot, ground and switched). While I agree that testing the horn is a
good idea, I would use a voltmeter to the disconnected horn connector first
to check you have power, ground and control signal power when horn switch is
pressed.

When I had a horn failure the horn would not shut off. It happened in the
wintertime during wet driving conditions. I removed the horn, and placed it
in a warm location inverted so any moisture would drain from the connector.
I did not see any water drain out but after a couple of days to dry, I
tested and reinstalled the horn using dielectric grease to seal the
connector. End of problem. It has worked OK for several years since then.
There have been a lot of horn problems reported here. Others have also
reported moisture and connector problems. I suspect that most are caused by
moisture and freezing of the relay. AFAIK the horn is very expensive and if
replaced with a standard two (or one) wire horn will also require a separate
relay.

Perhaps marx404 could comment on the relay issue. Did you(he) install a
separate relay or did the replacement horn contain a relay?
 
AFAIK, the relay is self contained in the horn itself and you make a good
point about moisture, as the positioning of the horn opening is exposed to
the wind and sits lower than say - the older SL2's there is a high
probability that moisture is a factor, was in my case. I would suggest
replacing the horn, only costs about $10. at Discount Auto.

marx404
 
I must admit to some confusion. The OP stated that they had tested the
relay but AFAIK the only relay in the horn circuit is contained inside the
horn unit.
Click to expand...

There is a horn relay in the underhood fusebox.
From memory and without checking, the horn connector has three
wires (hot, ground and switched). While I agree that testing the horn is a
good idea, I would use a voltmeter to the disconnected horn connector first
to check you have power, ground and control signal power when horn switch is
pressed.

When I had a horn failure the horn would not shut off. It happened in the
wintertime during wet driving conditions. I removed the horn, and placed it
in a warm location inverted so any moisture would drain from the connector.
I did not see any water drain out but after a couple of days to dry, I
tested and reinstalled the horn using dielectric grease to seal the
connector. End of problem. It has worked OK for several years since then.
There have been a lot of horn problems reported here. Others have also
reported moisture and connector problems.
Click to expand...

Hmm interesting. The problem has happened before but magically fixed
itself. Perhaps the horn "froze" and needed to thaw.
 
marx404 said:
AFAIK, the relay is self contained in the horn itself and you make a good
point about moisture, as the positioning of the horn opening is exposed to
the wind and sits lower than say - the older SL2's there is a high
probability that moisture is a factor, was in my case. I would suggest
replacing the horn, only costs about $10. at Discount Auto.

marx404
Click to expand...

Marx,

Where the heck is the horn anyway. I can't find it anywhere?
 
Its been awhile but if memory serves me right, its located on the underside
near the front bumper and is a beyach to get to on later model SC's, not as
convenient as where it was mounted on earlier SL's which was by the hood
latch up top, front.

marx404
 
marx404 said:
Its been awhile but if memory serves me right, its located on the
underside
near the front bumper and is a beyach to get to on later model SC's, not
as
convenient as where it was mounted on earlier SL's which was by the hood
latch up top, front.

marx404
Click to expand...
I accessed the horn on my '96 SL2 by removing the left front inner fender.

Ken
 
I replaced the horn on my '96 SL2 in July, 2005. All you need to do is
remove the headlight assembly by unscrewing two 10 mm fasteners. Let the
headlight dangle by it's wires for the duration. Then you can reach down to
the 10 mm fastener holding the horn in place. You can only make small
rotations, but you'll get there.

So it's quite easy, a 10 mm box end, a small extension, a ratchet, a 10 mm
socket, and you're in business.
 
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