Coolant Temperature Sensor location

  • Thread starter Thread starter stinknugget
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stinknugget

I just bought a CTS (Part Number 385146) for my 2000 SL and I don't know
where it goes. It's a small piece about 2 inches long and has a two-pin
plug at one side. I believe it should thread into the block or radiator
somewhere but after looking under the hood for some time, I can't figure
it out. If someone could explain in simple terms where it goes, that would
be much appreciated.

Brian

P.S. If the SL is still running extreme idle and I have to change the
Automatic Idle Air Control Motor (which I haven't bought yet), I may need
help locating that too.
 
I just bought a CTS (Part Number 385146) for my 2000 SL and I don't know
where it goes. It's a small piece about 2 inches long and has a two-pin
plug at one side. I believe it should thread into the block or radiator
somewhere but after looking under the hood for some time, I can't figure
it out. If someone could explain in simple terms where it goes, that would
be much appreciated.

(Note: Info below based on a '95 DOHC SW2. Yours should be similar.).

Open the hood. Immediately to the right of the valve cover, between it and the
air hose, is a can-like object mounted vertically on your engine block. This is
your EGR valve. Just below and slightly behind the EGR valve is a little dingus
sticking out of the block with a wire leading from it. This is your CTS.

Drain radiator. Remove wire. Remove CTS. Install CTS (use teflon tape or
antisieze compound on the threads). Do not overtighten! Attach wire. Refill
radiator. Drive.
 
William Hughes <[email protected]> typed until their fingers bled, and
came up with:

(Note: Info below based on a '95 DOHC SW2. Yours should be similar.).

Open the hood. Immediately to the right of the valve cover, between it
and the air hose, is a can-like object mounted vertically on your
engine block. This is your EGR valve. Just below and slightly behind
the EGR valve is a little dingus sticking out of the block with a wire
leading from it. This is your CTS.

Drain radiator. Remove wire. Remove CTS. Install CTS (use teflon tape
or antisieze compound on the threads). Do not overtighten! Attach
wire. Refill radiator. Drive.
Don't bother to drain the radiator. when you pull the old CTS out,
you'll lose maybe a pint of fluid. just put something on the ground to
absorb it, and then top the fliud off when you're done. then just rinse
off the tranny to get the leftover old fluid off, and enjoy you fixed
car.
 
Don't bother to drain the radiator. when you pull the old CTS out,
you'll lose maybe a pint of fluid.

This assumes a cold engine and unpresurized cooling system :)

(yes, that's how I found out about it too. Doh!)
 
Philip Nasadowski <[email protected]> typed until their fingers bled,
and came up with:

This assumes a cold engine and unpresurized cooling system :)

Well, yeah... I really don't like burning myself, so I tend to work on my
car when it is cold. That's one of the good things about DIY.
 
(Note: Info below based on a '95 DOHC SW2. Yours should be similar.).

Open the hood. Immediately to the right of the valve cover, between it and the
air hose, is a can-like object mounted vertically on your engine block. This is
your EGR valve. Just below and slightly behind the EGR valve is a little dingus
sticking out of the block with a wire leading from it. This is your CTS.

Drain radiator. Remove wire. Remove CTS. Install CTS (use teflon tape or
antisieze compound on the threads). Do not overtighten! Attach wire. Refill
radiator. Drive.


I have to add from my experience in changing my CTS, if you have the
new CTS all preped with 'removable' lock-tight, you can unscrew the
old one and have the new one in fast enough that draining any coolant
isn't necessary. I'm guessing I've been lucky when I do it, since the
engine is nice and cool, and the overflow tank cap is tight.

Rememer, if you are at all uncomfortable in doing any auto work, find
a qualified person. Might cost you like 30 bucks over the $10 CTS
purchased from Napa.

imho,

tom @ www.CarFleaMarket.com
 

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