changing timing belt?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Paul, Nov 21, 2003.

  1. Paul

    Paul Guest

    I have a '95 SL-2 with 80k miles on it.
    Bought it used with 70k on it.
    I was wondering, when is it time to change the timing belt? I looked into
    the manual, but it doesn't say anything about the mileage.

    Thanks.
     
    Paul, Nov 21, 2003
    #1
  2. Paul

    BANDIT2941 Guest

    For one, you have a chain. For two, there is no recommended service interval.
    Its supposed to last the life of the engine. In other words, if it starts
    clattering and making noise, then worry about it.

    You should learn about a cool feature at groups.google.com. If you go there and
    type in rec.autos.makers.saturn you get a list of postings, AND you can search
    them. So if you typed in timing belt you would have gotten a bunch of hits as a
    lot of people post and ask the same questions, and got similar responses as I
    just typed above.
     
    BANDIT2941, Nov 22, 2003
    #2
  3. Paul

    clutch Guest

    First, it doesn't have a belt. It has a chain. I'm new to the saturn
    thing but I've read 70K to when it (chain) makes noise.

    This is an interference engine so it truely stinks when it breaks.
    Talking to a Saturn mech when I was at lot looking for a car, he told
    me 5 hrs is what it takes to change one. Just a data point.

    You might want to try something like:

    http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=SL+timing+chain&meta=

    to search the archives and make an informed choice.

    HTH,

    Wes
     
    clutch, Nov 22, 2003
    #3
  4. It's not a quickie, but it's actually not that bad of a proceedure.
    Basicaly, you pop the left tire / splash shield off, remove the crank
    pulley (a pain), idlers (easy), tensioner (easy), water pump pulley (fun
    :)

    Remove the valve cover (T-40 torx, BTW), then wedge a piece of wood
    under the dogbonme under the engine, pull the mount thingie off, then
    the 4 8mm bolts on the front of the oil pan.

    Then you remove a bunch of 10mm bolts and maybe an 8, and carefully pry
    the cover off. Hey neat, there's the chain!

    Pull the chain tensioner off, the tension shoe, the other shoe, note how
    worn they are, get a new chain and maybe shoes, then retract the
    tensioner, line everything up, and put the chain on.

    Oh, then button it up. Use never-sieze on the water pump pulley bolts.
    Trust me.

    It's not *hard*. It takes forever and a few bolts are a ROYAL pain to
    get at - a 1/4" drive air ratchet would make this a breeze.

    But, I'd not worry, mine was still good at 220,000 miles, and if you
    change your oil every 3,000 or so, yours will, too.
     
    Philip Nasadowski, Nov 22, 2003
    #4
  5. Paul

    Paul Guest

    Bandi, thanks a lot for the tips.
    Never used Google for searching groups - big mistake.

    So, it's a chain. All right then.

    Thank you.

    (BANDIT2941) wrote in
     
    Paul, Nov 22, 2003
    #5
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