changing timing belt?

[Paul]

I have a '95 SL-2 with 80k miles on it.
Bought it used with 70k on it.
I was wondering, when is it time to change the timing belt? I looked into
the manual, but it doesn't say anything about the mileage.

Thanks.

 

[BANDIT2941]

I have a '95 SL-2 with 80k miles on it.
Bought it used with 70k on it.
I was wondering, when is it time to change the timing belt? I looked into
the manual, but it doesn't say anything about the mileage.

For one, you have a chain. For two, there is no recommended service interval.
Its supposed to last the life of the engine. In other words, if it starts
clattering and making noise, then worry about it.

You should learn about a cool feature at groups.google.com. If you go there and
type in rec.autos.makers.saturn you get a list of postings, AND you can search
them. So if you typed in timing belt you would have gotten a bunch of hits as a
lot of people post and ask the same questions, and got similar responses as I
just typed above.

 

[clutch]

I have a '95 SL-2 with 80k miles on it.
Bought it used with 70k on it.
I was wondering, when is it time to change the timing belt? I looked into
the manual, but it doesn't say anything about the mileage.

Thanks.

First, it doesn't have a belt. It has a chain. I'm new to the saturn
thing but I've read 70K to when it (chain) makes noise.

This is an interference engine so it truely stinks when it breaks.
Talking to a Saturn mech when I was at lot looking for a car, he told
me 5 hrs is what it takes to change one. Just a data point.

You might want to try something like:

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=SL+timing+chain&meta=

to search the archives and make an informed choice.

HTH,

Wes

 

[Philip Nasadowski]

Talking to a Saturn mech when I was at lot looking for a car, he told
me 5 hrs is what it takes to change one. Just a data point.

It's not a quickie, but it's actually not that bad of a proceedure.
Basicaly, you pop the left tire / splash shield off, remove the crank
pulley (a pain), idlers (easy), tensioner (easy), water pump pulley (fun

Pop the negative off the battery (whoops, shoulda done this first

Remove the valve cover (T-40 torx, BTW), then wedge a piece of wood
under the dogbonme under the engine, pull the mount thingie off, then
the 4 8mm bolts on the front of the oil pan.

Then you remove a bunch of 10mm bolts and maybe an 8, and carefully pry
the cover off. Hey neat, there's the chain!

Pull the chain tensioner off, the tension shoe, the other shoe, note how
worn they are, get a new chain and maybe shoes, then retract the
tensioner, line everything up, and put the chain on.

Oh, then button it up. Use never-sieze on the water pump pulley bolts.
Trust me.

It's not *hard*. It takes forever and a few bolts are a ROYAL pain to
get at - a 1/4" drive air ratchet would make this a breeze.

But, I'd not worry, mine was still good at 220,000 miles, and if you
change your oil every 3,000 or so, yours will, too.

 

[Paul]

Bandi, thanks a lot for the tips.
Never used Google for searching groups - big mistake.

So, it's a chain. All right then.

Thank you.

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