Camber Bolts

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by oligoguy, Aug 22, 2005.

  1. oligoguy

    oligoguy Guest

    I have a 2000 SW with a bit of an alignment problem. I took it in for an
    alignment (non-dealer) and got it back with a typical little spec sheet.
    After alignment, front cross-camber was still listed as out of spec with a
    short note that said something to the effect of "needs new cam bolts". I
    have no experience with alignment issues, but assume that the bolts are
    too rusted or something.

    Is this something I could replace myself and then have it realigned? lists camber adjusting bolt kits from $17-27, which I am
    willing to bet is cheaper than having a shop replace them. I have to
    admit, I don't know where these are located under the car...

    oligoguy, Aug 22, 2005
  2. oligoguy

    blah blah Guest

    They are 2 large bolts, one above the other, located at the bottom of
    the strut and above the cv joint (if in the front). They will be a bitch
    to remove and if you need new struts now's the time to find out by
    jousting your vehicle and counting the bounces. (should of been check
    before alignment.) When replacing them and use Anti-Seize Compound on
    all bolt threads.
    blah blah, Aug 22, 2005
  3. oligoguy

    Lane Guest

    The strut is held to the hub/knuckle assembly with 2 big bolts - see this
    photo: . Camber bolts
    replace at least one of them with a smaller diameter bolt that's oblong
    which allows some adjustment where there would otherwise be none.

    Most shops (including my local Saturn) will just make the bolt hole in the
    strut housing slightly oblong and use the original bolt. You can see a
    photo of what the holes then look like here: .This accomplishes the same
    thing, doesn't require extra parts, and maintains the strength of the
    original full-sized bolt. I've done this on both of my Saturns.

    These photos are from the 92 SC suspension page on my website. Visit it if
    you'd like to see more detail.

    Lane [ lane (at) ]
    Lane, Aug 23, 2005
  4. oligoguy

    oligoguy Guest

    Thanks a lot blah blah and Lane! I did not realize that it was not
    adjustable to begin with, and now I have a pretty good idea how to deal
    with it. I agree with blah blah that it looks like a pain, but I think it
    is easier for a guy like me to replace a bolt rather than widen the hole as
    Lane has done (nice website/work by the way).
    oligoguy, Aug 23, 2005
  5. oligoguy

    blah blah Guest

    Well if you got the right tools to break those rusty bolts free it wont
    be so bad. They are pretty easy to access once the wheels off. Widening
    the hole just takes a Die Grinder. For penetrating oil I use PB Blaster.
    It seems to work but some bolts it takes nothing short of a torch to
    free them. Dont want to boil the fluids in your struts though.
    blah blah, Aug 23, 2005
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