Brake Fluid

If I dare attempt to purge my brakes myself, any tips?
I read somewhere that there is a good fluid that isn't the standard color
for sat - and helps let you know when all of the old fluid is flushed out.

I plan on trying the Brembo rotors and Greenstuff pads as recommended!

 

Buy a suction type brake bleeder then thank me later.

Steve

 

I made one of these for $15:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

if you're using the pump the pedal with an assistant method, remember to
not push the pedal all the way to the floor, and to make sure you get
the bleed screw closed before they let off the pedal.

ATE super blue.

I've had good luck with Valvoline synthetic fluid - price is reasonable,
and it holds up to track use quite well.

don't waste the $$ on name brand rotors. spend the $$ on the pads.

 

Sweet. I'm up for this little project.

I made one of these for $15:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

if you're using the pump the pedal with an assistant method, remember to
not push the pedal all the way to the floor, and to make sure you get
the bleed screw closed before they let off the pedal.

ATE super blue.

I've had good luck with Valvoline synthetic fluid - price is reasonable,
and it holds up to track use quite well.

don't waste the $$ on name brand rotors. spend the $$ on the pads.

 

There is no need for anything other than standard fluid. When you
bleed the brakes it is pretty obvious when you get you start getting
new fluid. The old fluid will be very dark.

You will find a one man brake bleeder kit at your local auto parts
place. It is a plastic bottle with a hose that runs up to the
bleeder. I still use two people but the bottle works great to stop
you from making a mess and to see the coloring of the fluid that is
coming out. When the bottle is full stop, empty the bottle, fill the
master cylinder and start again. I am assuming that you understand
the basics of how to bleed the brakes... Be very careful not to the
let the master cylinder run dry!

I haven't used either of these products so can't comment on them.

Steve B.

 

One problem I see with those is moisture has a greater chance of
contaminating the brake fluid.

 

I always use the fluid called out on the reservoir. Old fluid tends to get a
dark color while the new fluid is nearly clear. I purge the old school way
(though a pressure bleeder is beginning to look good to me) using a helper
to operate the brake pedal while I open and close the bleed port. Open the
bleed port just to break it loose and gently re-tighten. A box wrench is
recommended as an open end will often strip the head. Put a hose on the
bleeder barb and feed to a bottle (if possible, keep the end of the hose
submerged)
The sequence is - pedal up, open bleed port, pedal down (slowly), close
bleed port, pedal up, repeat. Check the fluid level in the reservoir every
5-10 pumps to ensure that you don't get so low that you wind up sucking in
air. Let the reservoir empty as much as possible first to get rid of the old
fluid then top of fluid as you go.
Repeat for all wheels until fluid runs clear from all wheels.
Recheck bleed ports are snugly closed and replace dust caps.

Some cars, when you let up fast on the brake pedal will cause the fluid will
splash out of the reservoir. Just for gits and shiggles, take about a second
or two to move the pedal through its stroke. Not sure about modern paint
finishes but used to be that brake fluid ruined the paint (as in disolved
it). If any brake fluid splashes on painted surfaces, rinse off with water
quickly.

 

I don't put any fluid in the bleeder - since it sits in my trailer on
its side. I just use it to provide the pressure.

But - even if I did have fluid in it, I wouldn't leave it in there after
bleeding - just pour it in, bleed, toss the rest. I don't keep open
brake fluid around more than a few months, and never use it in the track
car.

 

I've had decent results with both a simple catch bottle & hose with a
one-way valve in it, as well as using Speedbleeder screws on the calipers.
Info on my site here: http://www.evilplastic.com/92mod1.htm#bleeders

The tech articles on the SPS website have some good info on bleeding brakes:
http://www.spswebpage.com/tech/index.php?articleID=bleeding_brakes
http://www.spswebpage.com/tech/index.php?articleID=bleeding_ABS_tech

And as Kevin said, buy the cheapest rotors you can find and get some good
pads.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

 

Just to be clear - Lane & I both use cheapo rotors on our track cars -
Last Thursday, I put about 120 miles on the car on a race track, which
included 3 90MPH+ to 35-40MPH corners per 2.1 mile lap. I am using Hawk
Blue race pads on cheap rotors, and the rotors are not chattering,
squealing, or causing any pulsation in the pedal.