I'm the proud owner of a 1993 SL2. I bought it used last year (I prefer the pre-1995 Saturns), and it's just over 100K. Recently (a week and a half ago), there's been a squeaky sound coming from my left front wheel when I brake. It's *slightly* arrythmic. It also sometimes occurs when I back up, without the brakes being applied, but it's almost always present when braking. I'm not too hip on wasting money on mechanics, so I took the wheel off to check it out myself, but I really am not that knowledgeable about disc brakes..... Anyway, I discovered-- - The left wheel's brake pads are significantly more worn down than the right, and the left one squeaks if I manually turn the rotor. - The rotor wiggles, just a little bit (equal to or less than 2mm at the edge). Is this normal? I failed to check against the right wheel. - The pads seem to --ever so slightly-- grip the rotor. - Disc brakes aren't as scary as I thought they were. They look almost as easy as drum brakes to replace! My girlfriend (equally knowledgeable about disc brakes) seems to think it's a return spring problem, but I didn't think disc brakes used a return spring.... So, to sum it all up, here's my collected questions-- Why does it squeak in reverse, or why does it squeak without the brakes being depressed? Why does the rotor wiggle, and is it normal? Why is one sides brake pads more worn down than the other? Thank you in advance, and I hope my information has been good enough to tell what's happening.
Possibly a sticking caliper from your description of the worn pads on only the side that is squeaking. Solution is a new caliper (may want to replace both fronts if you are keeping the vehicle), bleeding the brakes, and new fluid. May also be a good idea to do the brake pads and machine or replace the rotors at the same time. Bob
Miles / km? probably ready for new brake pads and rotors. Get a manual, Chiltons is thicker than Haynes. Did you rebolt the rotor? Remove the caliper, suspend with wire to spring to protect hose (mounting bolts may be difficult use good quality wrench) Inspect brake pads, make sure that they are not worn down to the rivets or the wear indicator (designed to squeak or more likely squeal when worn to replacement limit) If the outer pad is more worn it is an indication the caliper is not sliding freely. Clean any corrosion from caliper mounting holes and bolts. Always use high temp never-seize on bolts and caliper holes when reinstalling. Did you reinstal wheel bolts to clamp rotor before this test? It is the wheel that clamps the rotor in position. While you have the caliper and pads removed, reinstall the wheel and spin test to listen and feel for bad wheel bearing. Slop or lateral movement or rolling noise will be indications of worn bearing. May be normal (pads are designed to drag lightly to keep rotor clean and dry) or an indication of sticky caliper mounting bolts or internally corroded caliper piston. No return spring on disc brakes. While you have come this far you should consider replacing the pads and use NEW rotors. Do NOT attempt to turn the old rotors. These rotors are prone to warping and need all the thickness that they have. New (cheap / offshore) rotors are not much more expensive than the cost of turning which is not cost effective. Use good quality pads. CHANGING the brake fluid (by complete bleeding with piston pushed completely back in bore with C clamp) would be a good idea as fluid is hydroscopic and has probably absorbed water which will cause caliper piston bore corrosion. Do not use fluid from a previously opened container. Wear indicator. Bad wheel bearing or non clamped rotor. If outside pad is more worn indicates corrosion on caliper mounting bolts. If inside pad is more worn than the outer then the mounting bolts are probably seized AND the caliper piston bore corroded. YMMV Happy trails
Thanks a lot. That's all very helpful for me. No, I didn't re-attach the lug nuts, it never occurred to me that the rotor was held in place by the wheel...Should have been obvious, though. How else would you easily change them? Well, I'm taking it in today to have the brakes looked at. Definitely at least going to get new pads, and see what needs to be done from there. I'd do it myself, but I have kind of an automotive "black thumb." If I don't know PRECISELY what I'm doing, I screw something else up in the process of repair. Brakes are easy, and while I do have a Chilton manual, most of my tools are 3 states away at my parent's house. Thanks for all the help
