98 SC2 overheat problem-help

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by JMan74, Sep 15, 2004.

  1. JMan74

    JMan74 Guest

    I have 98 SC2 with 117K miles. Recently I have been experiencing overheat
    problems and am looking for some advice on the best way to check out the
    system. should I check the sensor first or the radiator cap? or the fan
    motor? Today when I ran it for about 10 miles around town it quickly got
    over 3/4 approaching red, and when I opened up the hood and the fan wasn't
    on. I would think it would be on at 3/4 or even 1/2. never had an
    overheat, this cars always, always runs on the dot of 1/4 for the life of
    the car. Coolant was changed last at 90K. In the 98 is the fan tied to
    the A/C? I don't think so but don't know for sure.
    Any help would be appreciated.
     
    JMan74, Sep 15, 2004
    #1
  2. JMan74

    Kirk Kohnen Guest

    Start car, turn on A/C.

    If the radiator fan doesn't turn on, suspect the radiator fan motor.

    They're sealed motors, but they have brushes in them. Those brushes wear
    out. When they do, you get the symptoms that you describe.

    Given the 117K miles, your radiator fan is probably worn out. It's a pretty
    easy job to replace it.
     
    Kirk Kohnen, Sep 16, 2004
    #2
  3. JMan74

    JMan74 Guest

    Kirk,

    Thanks. That's where I will start tomorrow. Kragen's stock them. should
    be a quick fix look at the manual. Any pointers from anyone that has
    changed it already? Things to look out for? Looks simple enough though.
     
    JMan74, Sep 16, 2004
    #3
  4. I just had an overheating problem on my 93 swi and it turned out to be the
    coolant temperature sensor. On my car I could not do the fan test with the
    A/C because it is not working, so even if you turn the A/C on the fan did
    not work. You can do another quick test to check the fan operation by
    shorting out the coolant temp sensor. On my SW1 there are two sensors. One
    drives the temperature gauge and the other tell the computer the temperature
    of the coolant. The one that drives the temp gauge has one wire and the one
    that goes to the PCM has two wires. All you have to do is unplug the
    connector of the one with two wires and take a very small paper clip or
    staple and connected across the two pins on the plug and then turn the motor
    on and the fan should turn on. If it does not turn on it is either the motor
    or the relay which turn the motor on. If you have a meter you can go to the
    fan motor plug and measure if you have 12V.
    Alex
     
    Alex Marcuzzi, Sep 17, 2004
    #4
  5. JMan74

    James1549 Guest

    They're sealed motors, but they have brushes in them. Those brushes wear
    First you should check to see if 12volts are present at the fan motor to
    properly diagnose the problem. Anyone can throw parts at a problem, especially
    when it isn't your money.

    Before starting the car, unplug the fan motor. Have a mult-meter or 12v test
    light ready. Start car and turn on A/C. Check for voltage at harness plug. If
    present, plug fan back in. If fan does not run, then replace motor.

    If no voltage present at either wire, then you need to diagnose a bit deeper.

    James
     
    James1549, Sep 17, 2004
    #5
  6. JMan74

    JMan74 Guest

    James,

    thanks. I didn't think about testing the connector first for voltage.
    Duh.

    I'll do that first.

    Jason
     
    JMan74, Sep 17, 2004
    #6
  7. JMan74

    Kirk Kohnen Guest

    Even if it does run, you might need to replace the fan motor. At the end of
    the brush life, the motors become intermittent - they can start working if
    they're bumped or jiggled.

    But, it's a good idea to confirm that you're getting 12 volts to the
    connector.
     
    Kirk Kohnen, Sep 18, 2004
    #7
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