95 Saturn SL2 Stalls when stopping

  • Thread starter Thread starter ML
  • Start date Start date
M

ML

I have a standard transmission, 95 Saturn SL2 that stalls when stopping. It
typically idles at 900 rpm, but
drops down to 200-300 rpm when stopping, usually stalling. Funny thing is
that when the A/C is on,
it "only" drops down to about 500 rpm and avoids stalling.

The weather is getting nice out and I would like not to have to run the A/C
to keep it from stalling. Any
ideas?
 
I have a standard transmission, 95 Saturn SL2 that stalls when stopping. It
typically idles at 900 rpm, but
drops down to 200-300 rpm when stopping, usually stalling

My 97 SC2.....auto trans. does that sometimes. Ususally in the winter.
Sometimes it stalls and sometimes it doesn`t. It is starting to do it again.
On my car it is the pcv valve that is the problem......it gets clogged with
white junk.
The first time it happenned I replaced the pcv ..........it got worse faster
after that.
Now I just clean out the original with carb. cleaner. Works for me.
Dan.
 
Take a look at the small hose that is connected to the pvc valve. On my 93
SW1 the hose being close to the motor developed a crack from the heat
causing a vacuum leak which was causing the idle to be erratic and stalling.
I replaced the piece of hose with a new one and it fixed the problem.

Alex
 
My 97 SC2.....auto trans. does that sometimes. Ususally in the winter.
Sometimes it stalls and sometimes it doesn`t. It is starting to do it again.
On my car it is the pcv valve that is the problem......it gets clogged with
white junk.
The first time it happenned I replaced the pcv ..........it got worse faster
after that.
Now I just clean out the original with carb. cleaner. Works for me.
Dan.

My 95 SW2 has this problem too. PCV valve. Code 32. Cleaning it solves
the problem for a while. I get black junk instead of white junk. Glad
to hear replacing it does not help. You saved me some money that I was
about to spend.
 
I believe that the code 32 error is the EGR valve, not the PCV. You need to
unclip the connector and remove the EGR (two bolts), then clean it and the
manifold thoroughly before reassembling using a new EGR gasket (about $3).
I cleaned mine using a small screwdriver and a wire brush tip on a dremel
rotary tool. If you do it right, you will remove a lot of black powdery
deposits from the EGR and the valve should ultimately move freely and not
stick in the open or closed positions

This should solve your intermittent SES light problem if it is in fact
caused by a code 32.
 
Oops, you're right! I meant EGR valve! And I did pretty much as you
say. Question: Is there any further disassembly of the EGR valve
possible, or do you just have to reach into the cavities as well as
possible?
 
Great products for cleaning EGR valves, throttle bodies, etc. can be
had at the nearest gun shop. I use a product for removing gunpower
residue (G96, don't remember the company name) and it works great.
I've used it on throttle bodies and my SL2's EGR valve. It takes
stuff off that kerosene and other solvents leave. It's amazing to
spray it on and see the crud come off.

In any case it's easier and safer than scraping and works well.

There are a lot of brand names, you can probably take your pick.

Jim
 

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