94 Saturn SL over heating

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by RT, Jul 16, 2004.

  1. RT

    RT Guest

    I have a 94 Saturn that seems to have a random over heating problems. Out of
    the blue the engine just starts to over heat, usually while idling, some
    times while driving. It might go weeks and not have a problem then out of
    the blue starts to over heat. Is goes from normal which the needle stays in
    the 1st 1/4 marking and then jumps to the last 3/4 marking.. The water pump
    seems to be fine, it's not leaking any where. The fluid seems to be good and
    full. The A/C is always off and the radiator fan seems to run like normal
    when it begins to over heat. It over heats for about 5 minutes then goes
    down to normal and usually stays there for a couple of days..

    Does any one have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I am
    planning on changing the thermostat and flushing the radiator to see if that
    solves the problem..

    Thanks..
     
    RT, Jul 16, 2004
    #1
  2. RT

    Kirk Kohnen Guest

    Cooling fan motor. When they fail, they start by failing intermittently.

    The brushes wear out and start not making contact. When you start moving, it
    spins the fan, which can cause the brush to start making contact.

    Replace it and you'll be much better off.
     
    Kirk Kohnen, Jul 16, 2004
    #2
  3. RT

    RT Guest

    I have noticed that is over heats while on the highway some times also??

    Thanks for the reply..
     
    RT, Jul 16, 2004
    #3
  4. RT

    Lane Guest

    First of all, I want to say what I say to everyone (again and again) posting
    a similar situation to your own.

    In the old days, overheating meant that the pressure relief valve on the
    cooling system cap popped, or hoses ruptured, and you were blowing steam.
    THIS is overheating. :)

    Your car probably isn't "overheating". Normal operating range on the gauge
    is half to 3/4. On hot days in slow traffic (or stopped/idling), my 94
    SC2's needle will sometimes go above 3/4 and close to the red. I don't
    worry - eventually, the fan comes on when it's designed to and reduces the
    temp. If it never comes on, then there is a problem there.

    First thing I would check is whether the airdam is still there. If that
    breaks off (which is easy to do), the engine will not cool as designed. To
    see if your fan motor is in working order, turn on your air conditioning and
    it should run. Others have also left good advice and mentioned things to
    check in this thread. You can also use google groups to do a search of past
    posts on this newsgroup and you will find that this has been discussed a lot
    in the past.

    FYI - I've run my 92 SC race car on the track for 20 minutes, very close to
    redline much of that time, on a 95 degree day. Due to my own actions (I had
    removed the airdam temporarily), my temp gauge was at the top of the red and
    nearly pegged the whole time - even with the fan on. A cooldown lap was all
    it took to bring it back down to 1/2. I didn't worry about it because these
    engines are pretty durable when it comes to temperature. It's just the
    owners who aren't.

    Lane [ l a n e @ p a i r . c o m ]
     
    Lane, Jul 16, 2004
    #4
  5. I'd suspect the thermostat may be intermittenly sticking..
     
    Robert Hancock, Jul 16, 2004
    #5
  6. RT

    jj128 Guest

    I have a 94 sc2 that i bought used. It's definitely overheating. When
    my needle reaches close to the red...it smells hot and performance is
    effected. I have to blast the heater to lower the temp.
     
    jj128, Dec 6, 2004
    #6
  7. The first thing I'd check is the coolant temp sensor (about $15). It
    provides a signal to turn on the cooling fan.

    And it's located upper right of your engine block as you stand looking at
    the engine...under the air snorkel. There are two sensors there...they look
    like little spark plugs. One sensor has one wire...and that goes to your
    temperature gauge.

    The other has 2 wires. That's the one you're looking for. You'll lose a
    *little* coolant when you remove the sensor...so be careful no to burn
    yourself.

    You'll need a deep socket 13 mm, I believe...and don't over tighten it.
    It's an easy fix, if that's the problem.

    In the mean time, hit the A/C button, just long enough to get the compressor
    running, then shut it off. If the fan motor is working, the fan will come
    on as part of the cooling system, and shut off when the engine reaches
    normal operating temps.

    I controlled the temp of my engine for almost a year this way before
    replacing my coolant temp sensor.

    Good luck.
     
    Barry Schnoor, Dec 7, 2004
    #7
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