Anyone know of a make/model ABS Reader that will work with my car?
93 SL2 ABS Reader
- Thread starter RobertAllenStone
- Start date
Derf
Moderator
What are you trying to accomplish with the ABS system? Read codes? Running a routine that will flush or bleed the brake system?
I realize you stated reader but many people who ask this question are also in search of the above mentioned functionality.
I realize you stated reader but many people who ask this question are also in search of the above mentioned functionality.
Thank you.
Thank you for taking an interest.
This is what is happening.
The ABS light comes on a few seconds after driving away.
I don't hear or feel the brake test.
The fuses are good.
The brake fluid is full and new from April.
Everything at the 4 wheels looks okay.
The right front sensor wire -
Damaged about 2003.
Twisted together and taped by Saturn Dealer at that time.
Failed again in maybe 2020?
Couldn't solder the rotted wires.
Twisted 3 inches of the wires together with Stabilant 22 Contact Enhancer.
This weekend I will replace the right front;
ABS Sensor,
ABS Pigtail,
and ABS wire all the way back to the connector under the hood.
If that doesn't work,
I will then move on to the sensors and pig tails at the other wheels.
Knowing what the code is would cost, but there is some
cost to the ABS sensors, all the pigtails, and the shipping.
I think the rear sensors are in the wheel bearing, not sure,
and I changed both rear wheel bearings maybe 10(?) years ago.
Searching for a 93 ABS reader returns mostly OBD readers and
the AI tells me I can short the pins under the dash and read
out the code from the flashing light
Also, not sure, I think GM used different systems on different
makes so I don't know if I can use one that works with say,
a Cadillac model, from that year.
Robert
Thank you for taking an interest.
This is what is happening.
The ABS light comes on a few seconds after driving away.
I don't hear or feel the brake test.
The fuses are good.
The brake fluid is full and new from April.
Everything at the 4 wheels looks okay.
The right front sensor wire -
Damaged about 2003.
Twisted together and taped by Saturn Dealer at that time.
Failed again in maybe 2020?
Couldn't solder the rotted wires.
Twisted 3 inches of the wires together with Stabilant 22 Contact Enhancer.
This weekend I will replace the right front;
ABS Sensor,
ABS Pigtail,
and ABS wire all the way back to the connector under the hood.
If that doesn't work,
I will then move on to the sensors and pig tails at the other wheels.
Knowing what the code is would cost, but there is some
cost to the ABS sensors, all the pigtails, and the shipping.
I think the rear sensors are in the wheel bearing, not sure,
and I changed both rear wheel bearings maybe 10(?) years ago.
Searching for a 93 ABS reader returns mostly OBD readers and
the AI tells me I can short the pins under the dash and read
out the code from the flashing light
Also, not sure, I think GM used different systems on different
makes so I don't know if I can use one that works with say,
a Cadillac model, from that year.
Robert
Derf
Moderator
They were still using OBD I in 93, meaning you can in fact use the paperclip method to short 2 of the pins to get it to flash the codes at you. I don't remember if the codes include ABS....I will check and get back to you in a little while.
If the ABS light does not go on until you start moving, it's possible that one or more of the sensors and or the tone rings on the CVs have accumulated crap stuck to them making the sensors unable to read the signal created when the segments of the tone ring go by it. Basically, it makes the signal too weak. This could be at either front wheel. Given the age of the vehicle, it wouldn't surprise me one bit. Clean them off with a mild cleaner and rag. Do not take a wire brush to them or you will likely damage them.
Do not start throwing parts at the car. It is much more expensive than actually troubleshooting and solving the problem.
I expect that the ABS light comes on when the system tries to do the ABS test and isn't detecting a signal or proper signal from one or both of the front ABS sensors.
I don't remember how they are physically installed, but soak the threads very very well with PB blaster or equivalent. Something to break down the rust. You obviously want to avoid snapping them off in the holes if you are in fact removing them.
How many miles and how much oil does it burn?
If the ABS light does not go on until you start moving, it's possible that one or more of the sensors and or the tone rings on the CVs have accumulated crap stuck to them making the sensors unable to read the signal created when the segments of the tone ring go by it. Basically, it makes the signal too weak. This could be at either front wheel. Given the age of the vehicle, it wouldn't surprise me one bit. Clean them off with a mild cleaner and rag. Do not take a wire brush to them or you will likely damage them.
Do not start throwing parts at the car. It is much more expensive than actually troubleshooting and solving the problem.
I expect that the ABS light comes on when the system tries to do the ABS test and isn't detecting a signal or proper signal from one or both of the front ABS sensors.
I don't remember how they are physically installed, but soak the threads very very well with PB blaster or equivalent. Something to break down the rust. You obviously want to avoid snapping them off in the holes if you are in fact removing them.
How many miles and how much oil does it burn?
This got really long somehow, sorry.
The teeth and spaces between them look okay.
There is nothing between the sensors and the teeth.
The space between the teeth and the sensor looks the
same on the right and left wheel..
I also suspect a sensor signal.
Most likely the severally corroded wire to the right front wheel.
The wire had a large area of corrosion.
I couldn't find a clean spot to solder.
Though I don't know for certain this is the problem, to repair the
wire, the pigtail also needs to be replaced.
The one by the sensor, I don't have the one under the
hood and maybe the corrosion never got that far.
I will probably change the wire and pig tail, then test
before replacing the sensor.
The sensors are difficult to replace because they have a
plastic pin and a bolt. The pin goes into a hole in the knuckle
and the knuckle gets rusty, squeezing down on the plastic
pin. That is what I remember from when the wheel
bearing collapsed as I tried to push it out, many years ago.
I had to get a used replacement knuckle.
And because I had to replace the sensor with the broken pin,
I bought 2 but I never did the other side.
Maybe it was on closeout, I don't remember.
i am a big fan of closeouts.
If the replacement wire doesn't work, I will then spend some
money on a plastic safe spray cleaner (which I always seem
to need anyways) to clean the teeth and the little metal button
that shows on the plastic sensor. I hadn't planned cleaning
the teeth and sensor but while thinking about this I remembered
how I broke the old sensor trying get it out of the original knuckle.
The one with the collapsed wheel bearing in it.
====================================================
Maybe I won't need an ABS reader.
I hope it gets fixed this weekend with just a few feet of
wire and the cost of one pigtail.
But there is a strange feeling of unease in not being able
to pin point a problem. Not being able to troubleshoot it.
Without a code reader I don't see any other option then to
sequentially replace old parts that have been outdoors,
winter and summer, for 33 years.
Wish me luck
Something over 214,000 miles.
The car burns less then a quart of oil every 1500 miles,
which is three months and that is when I change the oil.
I usually fill it to between the two L's in 'FULL.'
Supposedly, that keeps the oil level below the cover on the
pan and means I don't have to top up the oil between changes.
Right now I am using Sam's club 5w-30 that was a bit
over $15 for a case of twelve. On closeout, of coarse.
Still, I think the timing chain is getting noisy. It will
have to wait till spring. I will be 70 soon and if I am
still working part time, I may pay to have it done.
If I am not working, will I fix it? Ida Know.
The teeth and spaces between them look okay.
There is nothing between the sensors and the teeth.
The space between the teeth and the sensor looks the
same on the right and left wheel..
I also suspect a sensor signal.
Most likely the severally corroded wire to the right front wheel.
The wire had a large area of corrosion.
I couldn't find a clean spot to solder.
Though I don't know for certain this is the problem, to repair the
wire, the pigtail also needs to be replaced.
The one by the sensor, I don't have the one under the
hood and maybe the corrosion never got that far.
I will probably change the wire and pig tail, then test
before replacing the sensor.
The sensors are difficult to replace because they have a
plastic pin and a bolt. The pin goes into a hole in the knuckle
and the knuckle gets rusty, squeezing down on the plastic
pin. That is what I remember from when the wheel
bearing collapsed as I tried to push it out, many years ago.
I had to get a used replacement knuckle.
And because I had to replace the sensor with the broken pin,
I bought 2 but I never did the other side.
Maybe it was on closeout, I don't remember.
i am a big fan of closeouts.
If the replacement wire doesn't work, I will then spend some
money on a plastic safe spray cleaner (which I always seem
to need anyways) to clean the teeth and the little metal button
that shows on the plastic sensor. I hadn't planned cleaning
the teeth and sensor but while thinking about this I remembered
how I broke the old sensor trying get it out of the original knuckle.
The one with the collapsed wheel bearing in it.
====================================================
Maybe I won't need an ABS reader.
I hope it gets fixed this weekend with just a few feet of
wire and the cost of one pigtail.
But there is a strange feeling of unease in not being able
to pin point a problem. Not being able to troubleshoot it.
Without a code reader I don't see any other option then to
sequentially replace old parts that have been outdoors,
winter and summer, for 33 years.
Wish me luck
Something over 214,000 miles.
The car burns less then a quart of oil every 1500 miles,
which is three months and that is when I change the oil.
I usually fill it to between the two L's in 'FULL.'
Supposedly, that keeps the oil level below the cover on the
pan and means I don't have to top up the oil between changes.
Right now I am using Sam's club 5w-30 that was a bit
over $15 for a case of twelve. On closeout, of coarse.
Still, I think the timing chain is getting noisy. It will
have to wait till spring. I will be 70 soon and if I am
still working part time, I may pay to have it done.
If I am not working, will I fix it? Ida Know.
PS - Except for brake and steering bolts, I stopped using
thread locker 40 years ago. So the sensor on the right
wheel would have anti-seize on the bolt and brake lube
on the plastic pin. The rust was probably why I never
changed the other sensor.
Thanks for reading all of this.
Writing it brought back memories.
Robert the long winded.
thread locker 40 years ago. So the sensor on the right
wheel would have anti-seize on the bolt and brake lube
on the plastic pin. The rust was probably why I never
changed the other sensor.
Thanks for reading all of this.
Writing it brought back memories.
Robert the long winded.
Derf
Moderator
Well, the standard OBD1 codes I reviewed include only one abs related code and it does not tell you the flashing dashboard lights which sensor is at issue.
To get at the more specific information, you'd need to use a higher-end scanner, not reader, to communicate with the ABS control module and pull the data from it.
If you break off that plastic pin, you can drill it out with an 8 mm drill bit, provided you do not widen the opening in which it sits. If you do, then the sensor will not stay in place once attached and will likely generate erratic signals. Beats replacing a knuckle.
So I suppose in terms of scanners, to get at the ABS code you'd need to purchase a compatible snap-on type used scanner with the adapter from OBD2 to OBD1 to attach to the aldl port.
Or you can pay someone for a diagnostic and they can use their fancy schmancy high-end scanner and give you the code and it's interpretation. Probably about $100 these days. Seems it would be more beneficial to actually have an old snap-on reader around. Many out on eBay. A GM tech 2 is what they used at the dealership. There are clones that are affordable. You could probably find a newer snap-on type scanner that is capable of OBD1 operation. You just need to research which models support it.
I think there is a computer program out there called ALDL that runs off of Windows that might be able to access the information. I looked it up a long time ago but I can't remember the extent of its functionality and I have no idea what version of Windows it's supported on. But it's worth a lookup.
Sorry for the babbling, but I have a 95 SC2 with 240k. I guess changing the oil at 1500 and not 3000 it was the cat's meow, because I don't know anyone that had a dohc burn that little oil at that mileage. Now I'm jealous.
Have you ever tried an MMO soak to free up the oil control rings?
To get at the more specific information, you'd need to use a higher-end scanner, not reader, to communicate with the ABS control module and pull the data from it.
If you break off that plastic pin, you can drill it out with an 8 mm drill bit, provided you do not widen the opening in which it sits. If you do, then the sensor will not stay in place once attached and will likely generate erratic signals. Beats replacing a knuckle.
So I suppose in terms of scanners, to get at the ABS code you'd need to purchase a compatible snap-on type used scanner with the adapter from OBD2 to OBD1 to attach to the aldl port.
Or you can pay someone for a diagnostic and they can use their fancy schmancy high-end scanner and give you the code and it's interpretation. Probably about $100 these days. Seems it would be more beneficial to actually have an old snap-on reader around. Many out on eBay. A GM tech 2 is what they used at the dealership. There are clones that are affordable. You could probably find a newer snap-on type scanner that is capable of OBD1 operation. You just need to research which models support it.
I think there is a computer program out there called ALDL that runs off of Windows that might be able to access the information. I looked it up a long time ago but I can't remember the extent of its functionality and I have no idea what version of Windows it's supported on. But it's worth a lookup.
Sorry for the babbling, but I have a 95 SC2 with 240k. I guess changing the oil at 1500 and not 3000 it was the cat's meow, because I don't know anyone that had a dohc burn that little oil at that mileage. Now I'm jealous.
Have you ever tried an MMO soak to free up the oil control rings?
Last edited:
Derf
Moderator
I can outwind you without even trying...
Before you go to remove the sensor, if you do, check the resistance across it. Should be between 1 and 10 ohms. Open of course is dead. I agree the wire is probably bad. I don't think you need to replace it all the way back. Just far enough back to somewhere that still has insulation intact. If you do add all the wire, make sure you use something that will not add significant resistance to the circuit or you may inadvertently reduce the voltage level seen by the PCM since that resistance would be in series with the sensor. And make sure the ground wire for each of those sensors is truly running to a good ground.
Just take your time and soak soak soak so that you do not break off sensor.
If your meter has long enough leads, you may be able to do a continuity test from the pigtail up to wherever it leads, I guess the ABS control module. This would tell you whether you really need to replace all that wire or not. Plus I am thinking that wire probably goes into a connector with a crimped terminal on it which means pulling that out and replacing it if you are doing a full full replacement. You could just cut it 2 inches short solder and shrink wrap.
If you do ever want to read the codes flashed on the dashboard, insert a paper clip in the top right slot of the Aldl and the slot to the left of it, then turn the ignition to on but do not start the car. The vehicle should flash code 12, as blink, pause, blink blink. It does that three times which demonstrates the system is working. Then it will flash any codes that are present code 32 being
Blink blink blink pause blink blink. When it is all done, it will blink code 12 three times again. Then I believe it starts back at the beginning of the information loop. I think you can serial data from the bottommost right port but I'm not sure with what. Has to do with the scanner I'm sure.
Rambliingly yours,
Derf
Before you go to remove the sensor, if you do, check the resistance across it. Should be between 1 and 10 ohms. Open of course is dead. I agree the wire is probably bad. I don't think you need to replace it all the way back. Just far enough back to somewhere that still has insulation intact. If you do add all the wire, make sure you use something that will not add significant resistance to the circuit or you may inadvertently reduce the voltage level seen by the PCM since that resistance would be in series with the sensor. And make sure the ground wire for each of those sensors is truly running to a good ground.
Just take your time and soak soak soak so that you do not break off sensor.
If your meter has long enough leads, you may be able to do a continuity test from the pigtail up to wherever it leads, I guess the ABS control module. This would tell you whether you really need to replace all that wire or not. Plus I am thinking that wire probably goes into a connector with a crimped terminal on it which means pulling that out and replacing it if you are doing a full full replacement. You could just cut it 2 inches short solder and shrink wrap.
If you do ever want to read the codes flashed on the dashboard, insert a paper clip in the top right slot of the Aldl and the slot to the left of it, then turn the ignition to on but do not start the car. The vehicle should flash code 12, as blink, pause, blink blink. It does that three times which demonstrates the system is working. Then it will flash any codes that are present code 32 being
Blink blink blink pause blink blink. When it is all done, it will blink code 12 three times again. Then I believe it starts back at the beginning of the information loop. I think you can serial data from the bottommost right port but I'm not sure with what. Has to do with the scanner I'm sure.
Rambliingly yours,
Derf
Latest threads
-
-
-
-
2004 Saturn Vue Base, FWD w/ 240K Miles on it. Engine Rebuild Kits?
- Started by Bexar81
- Replies: 1
-
2008 Vue XR 3.6L V6 212k miles A/C not working after vacation
- Started by T1gerTr0n
- Replies: 1