2001 Saturn no crank no start intermitant

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soda9191

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Hello,

I have a 2001 SL1 Saturn in which I replaced the battery. The car starts if it sits over night and runs with no issue. If I turn it off it will have to sit for several hours again before it wants to start again. I checked the normal things like battery connection, security setting, and fuel pump noise when starting. I am trying to pinpoint if its the starter since when I turn the key on after running there is a no crank no start but all of the dash lights turn on and I hear the fuel pump prime.

Any thoughts?
 
1) Have your charging system load tested at AutoZone or similar. It's free.
We're looking to see that the alternator is properly charging the battery AND that the battery is able to store the charge given to it.

2) have a buddy measure the dc voltage across the battery. What is the value before cranking? What is the voltage reading while holding the key to crank during a no crank episode? If the voltage drops below about 10.5 to 11.0 volts, your new battery may be defective.

3) check the positive battery lead where it connects to other components, like the alternator and starter. A loose connection that expands with heat may become a no connection until it cools enough that the connection becomes a connection again.

4) park the vehicle somewhere you will have good access to the front right wheel. Put the parking brake on. Jack the car up in the front and place on jack stands. Remove the right front tire and wheel well liner to get good access to the starter.

During a no crank, have a buddy hold the key to crank while you place something like the long handle of your floor jack against the case of the starter. Whack the pipe pretty good w a mallet or hammer.

Make sure the pipe is away from the pulley and serp belt.

If the starter comes to life and starts the car, the Bendix in the starter (part that extends the starter gear to engage the flywheel) is stuck or otherwise malfunctioning.

I'd give this 2 tries to confirm (most people only give it one try but I'm kind of neurotic).

Since you have access, you can also just pull the starter and take it to AutoZone or similar and have it bench tested. To do so I believe you need to get under the vehicle to get one of the bolts out that holds the starter in place.

If it does end up being the starter, do not buy one of the cheap AutoZone lifetime warranty remanufactured starters. You'll get about a year out of each one. Then you'll be down there replacing it again. It's worth the extra money to get a decent brand name starter, preferably new if you can afford it.
 
If the starter comes to life and starts the car, the Bendix in the starter (part that extends the starter gear to engage the flywheel) is stuck or otherwise malfunctioning.

The car starts if it sits over night and then it will startup and after turning it off again the cycle repeats. I am going to replace the starter and see if it fixes it.
 
The bendix can act up only when hot (2nd and subsequent start attempts after a successful start).
Your battery also slightly recovers additional charge overnight. Maybe borderline, causing the issue.

Just trying to give you some troubleshooting tips. Things are not always as they seem.

In all likelihood, it is in fact the starter.

I try not to spend other people's money before I've helped exhaust all of the reasonable options with basic troubleshooting. You of course are under no obligation to troubleshoot or take any advice.

Which begs the question....
-----------
If you already knew what you were gonna do, why ask for advice (troubleshooting assistance), then ignore pretty much all of it?

Please report back with resolution so that others who come along may see closure from your experience.
 
I have asked for advice to confirm what I am seeing. The car has a brand new battery. So that is not an issue and I dont see how the alternator is involved during the crank no start. As I mentioned in my original post there were several steps I tested. Once the car starts it stays on and runs perfectly. So I have ruled out any other issues.

Also I tried to start it this afternoon and it did not crank or start. I will try to start it in the morning once more to see if temperature is the reason why it wont start in the afternoon.

And I am not here to waste anyone's time or money. Just reporting the facts.
 
Clearly you have never had a one month old battery die on you. Happens more than you think. Ask me how I know. That's why I should just such things to people. The alternator has nothing to do directly with the starting sequence. As I explained above, it is an indirect relationship in that it is required to function correctly to properly charge the battery.

Indeed some of the things I mentioned have a significantly lower probability of occurrence then this starter simply crapping out. But they are things that take no more than 5 minutes to check and I mention them because they DO happen.

Changing a starter on an s car is not one of the most wonderful jobs as half of putting it in is blind. If i remember correctly, it has to come out the wheel well on some magic angle that doesn't seem to exist but does.

If you want to do yourself a favor, replace the blind bolt with the equivalent stud and thread that into the hole, then the starter, then secure with a bolt and torque to spec. This way you never have to try to thread anything in the blind hole ever again.
 
I finally had a chance to replace the starter. It is replaced by lifting the car and removing it from underneath. The key is to have all of the tools and utilize a mirror to help find the blind bolt. You can get an adjustable mirror freight for a few dollars and it will help tremendously. The other thing that I used for the blind bolt was a short stubby ratchet and a short 13MM socket. The rest of the job of removing the connections from the old starter required 10MM and 13MM sockets.

Plan a few hours if you have not done the starter replacement before.
 
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