2001 L300 Here is the OBDII data, help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Joe AutoTap Diagnostic - Version 3.10 Date: 1/8/2010 3:37:58 PM Check Engine Light: ON Time Since Codes Cleared: --- Distance Since Codes Cleared: --- Drive Cycles Since Codes Cleared: --- Confirmed Diagnostic Trouble Codes: Code: Description: P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 Possible Diagnostic Trouble Codes: Code: Description: --------: EMISSION TEST STATUS :-------- Emission Status: <SELECT DATE> Vehicle Model Year: <SELECT> OBD Compliant: Yes Misfire Monitoring: Complete Heated Catalyst Monitoring: NotSupported Comprehensive Component Monitoring: Complete Catalyst Monitoring: Incomplete Fuel System Monitoring: Complete Evaporative System Monitoring: Incomplete Secondary Air System Monitoring: NotSupported EGR System Monitoring: Incomplete Oxygen Sensor Monitoring: Incomplete Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring: Incomplete A/C System Refrigerant Monitoring: NotSupported --------: FREEZE FRAME DATA :-------- Generated by DTC code: P0030 Fuel System Status Bank 1: OL-1 Calculated Engine Load: 2.7 % Engine Coolant Temperature: 189 °F Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0 % Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: -0.8 % Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 1.6 % Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: -0.8 % Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): 9.7 in Hg Engine Speed: 600 RPM
iirc- that is the front upstream O2 sensor and it is telling you that the heater circuit is not regulating. Most common problem is the heater circuit opened up inside the sensor. Just for gits and shiggles, remove the sensor connector and re-mate. This is a 4-circuit. Test again, if it is still the same, replace the sensor. I got a generic one that had to be spliced. Been working fine since. Got 150K miles on my '01, lw300 If you haven't replaced O2 sensors before, it is helpful to get the special socket wrench with the side exit for the wires. you can cut the wires off the old one at the sensor and use a plain socket to remove it. Work it out gently so the threads don't snap off in the manifold. Install the new sensor using only the thread-lube that is pre-applied. Be careful that you don't damage the wiring while screwing in the new sensor. I've been considering buying the autotap. Which model adaptor do you have and do you think it was worth it? Did you get the extended codes? Now that I have a laptop, was seriously considering getting one. To this point, been borrowing a Snap-On scan tool from a friend at a local garage. Oppie
Thanks for your help, now if I can get my daughter to stop driving it long enough to work on it Sorry it took so long to reply, I LOVE the Autotap, you can set up graphs and compare good to possibly bad, you can go for a ride and log the whole trip for playback, it is a great product. I use it on an old PII laptop and it works fine. model is ATU ATENDOM I have the extended codes, which is good for tranny issues etc..
Thanks for your help, now if I can get my daughter to stop driving it long enough to work on it Sorry it took so long to reply, I LOVE the Autotap, you can set up graphs and compare good to possibly bad, you can go for a ride and log the whole trip for playback, it is a great product. I use it on an old PII laptop and it works fine. model is ATU ATENDOM I have the extended codes, which is good for tranny issues etc..
Thanks for the recommendation. I was going to look up autotap again today and found that their website was down. Will try again later. I'm an industrial customer of B&B Electronics, parent company of Autotap. B&B is a good company to work with.
