1999 SW2 won't start...

Discussion in 'Saturn S-series' started by RoK, Dec 6, 2008.

  1. RoK

    RoK Guest

    Looking for some help with suggestions of what else might be the problem
    with this not starting. Checked the battery first thing and it is good all
    the way around. Used Load tester on it and it tested good too. Not a cell
    issue.
    All acces. work plus lights, inside and out.
    Hooked up OBDII and nothing there either
    When I turn the key it is dead as dead, nothing and it is not clicking like
    it might be a solenoid. Fuses are all good, the ones I check anyway and if
    there are any others then I am not aware of them and some direction would be
    cool and appreciated. The whiff says that there was nothing out of the
    ordinary that happened before the problem. But she ain't the most friggen
    observant individual. Of course with the multiple personalities that they
    all seem to come with, (my experiences anyway) they/she might not qualify as
    an individual... (sigh) at any rate,.... if anyone could suggest what else
    to check and if you don't mind, tell me where exactly I can find the little
    jewel that will be the subject of conversation, that would be cool too. I
    need to get this sucker fixed so she stays the hell out of my Blazer...

    TIA

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    RoK, Dec 6, 2008
    #1
  2. RoK

    navaidstech Guest

    Let's see....

    Standard or Automatic?


    If standard...check the clutch pedal switch. If automatic, check the
    Neutral Start switch. I don't drive automatics but I believe that if
    you're in gear (ie Neutral start switch open) then you won't be able
    to start the car, not even a click.

    Start checking right at the solenoid itself and then go backwards. If
    you see +12 volts on the solenoid when ignition key turned, then it's
    your solenoid. If no 12V, then trace your way back through the UHJB
    (I've seen them go bad), neutral start switch (or clutch pedal switch
    in standard) towards the ignition switch.

    Alex
     
    navaidstech, Dec 6, 2008
    #2
  3. RoK

    Jon Jon Guest

    Ignition Switch is my guess.
     
    Jon Jon, Dec 7, 2008
    #3
  4. RoK

    John Guest

    My 99 SL1 had a similar issue and it was the fuse block
     
    John, Dec 7, 2008
    #4
  5. RoK

    RoK Guest

    Yup I checked the neutral safety sw., made sure it was in P or N(tried both
    actually, nada) I will be getting in there with a test light tomorrow and I
    had made sure the battery was up before anything... So I am hoping for
    something cheap and easy.... If I am lucky, the Saturn will turn out to be
    the same way... HA!! LOL... prefer the redheads!!!

    thanks for the replies and contributions...
     
    RoK, Dec 10, 2008
    #5
  6. RoK

    navaidstech Guest

    Oh yeah? Tell that to my buddy who went thrugh hell with a
    redhead...on top of it she was (still is I guess) Scottish.
    Lucky him, he got himself a good lawyer and got off easy. Promised
    he'll never marry that combination again (Scottish redhead)

    :)

    Good luck with the car. DOn't forget to report back what you found.
     
    navaidstech, Dec 11, 2008
    #6
  7. RoK

    RoK Guest

    As of right now, I guess it is the Neutral Safety Sw. There is a test
    terminal(marked) on top next to a black w/white wire. If I put a test light
    on the test terminal clip on the terminal and then to grd, then turn on the
    ingnition as if to start the car, it should light when I close the circuit
    but the light doesn't come on. They want $52+ at NAPA and the Stealer wants
    $55+ and funds are low. Have to wait until some money is in the budget and
    then get the new NSS and see if that does the trick.
    If I wanted to by pass the NSS, would I just jump the two purple wires that
    are on the connector also going into the sw. or is if possible that I may
    short something if it is more (or something other) than the NSS?
    At any rate, that is where I am at with it now...
     
    RoK, Dec 13, 2008
    #7
  8. RoK

    navaidstech Guest

    I've never seen it on automatics but is this switch located right one
    the transaxle?
     
    navaidstech, Dec 13, 2008
    #8
  9. RoK

    RoK Guest

    Presuming "right ON the transaxle",... no.... it has three points of contact where it bolts or screws onto the side of the bell housing where the housing and back of engine face mate and bolt together. Faces the rear of the car towards the firewall and is almost center of driver @ steering wheel. It has the one black with white strip wire going to the single terminal I mentioned then the test terminal next to that. Then there is a connector that sits horizontally just to the right and a bit lower that has the two purple ign. wires that plug into the side of it and also a multi wire connector that is below that one....

    As I mentioned in earlier post, I was wondering if I jumped the two purple wires if that would more or less be like bypassing the NSS and I could maybe get the engine to roll and fire.... Anyone???? Looking for a confirmation here....
    thanks
     
    RoK, Dec 14, 2008
    #9
  10. RoK

    navaidstech Guest

    OK...

    looking at the schematic, the two wires in question are purple. All
    you have to do is jump them and then try to start the car.
    If the car doesn't start, then keep looking elsewhere, if it does -
    well then you know it's the switch.

    There is another set of wires (dark blue and light green) going to
    that switch as well. THose are used for your backup lights when you
    switch the gear selector into reverse.

    Before you run out to buy a replacement, check to see if your TV cable
    is aligned (I believe it's called TV cable). This is the cable that
    connects your shifter to the switch. It's possible that it might have
    loosened (or even broken off) and the switch is out of sync with the
    selector. This is where an ohmmeter would come in quite handy but if
    you don't have one then try this:

    - disconnect the purple wire from the starter and hook up your light
    to it
    - turn on the ignition and hold it
    - while holding the ignition switch, move your gear selector and watch
    the lamp
    - if the lamp does not come on at all then your neutral switch is
    busted or TV cable disconnected
    - if does come on, check the position of the shift selector. If it
    indicates anything other than P or R, then your cable is out of sync
    and needs to be readjusted.

    If you find that the switch is in fact bad, see if it can be
    disassembled and cleaned. That will save you 50 bux right there.
     
    navaidstech, Dec 14, 2008
    #10
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