1995 Saturn SL2 - antifreeze leak troubleshooting and brake bleeding??

Discussion in 'Saturn S-series' started by Woogeroo, Dec 13, 2005.

  1. Woogeroo

    Woogeroo Guest

    1995 sl2 - antifreeze leak - where is it?

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    hiyas.

    so... a 1995 saturn sl2... it's leaking antifreeze... I'm trying to
    figure out from where.

    Now, I have it up on some oil changing ramps... the antifreeze is
    dripping pretty good from somewhere underneath the throttle body/air
    intake and between the engine and the firewall... or maybe out of the
    engine, I can't get back there to see.

    There looks to be the two heater hoses going through the firewall in
    that area...

    At any rate, it is dribbling on the back of the engine, then on top of
    the exhuast pipe... I only mention this to give an idea of the area I
    am referring to.

    Any ideas? Things to check... ways to check?

    thanks.

    -W

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    1995 SL2 - bleeding the brakes ?

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    Hi.

    In my so far epic quest to determine where exactly the antifreeze is
    coming from on a 1995 saturn sl2, I went to remove the air duct/pipe
    that goes from the air filter box to the air intake/throttle body...
    and subsequently popped the reservoir for the brake fluid on the master
    cylinder off, so brake fluid went everywhere. Yay.

    So I got that part back on good... the reservoir for the brake fluid,
    but I'm guessing it would be wise to bleed the brakes now. I have bled
    the brakes on many other types of GM vehicles before, a '65 chevy
    truck, a 1985 chevy s-10 truck, a '85 oldsmobile, etc.. I just thought
    I'd check to see if there was anything special to look out for on this
    electronic gizmo mobile.

    thanks to all...

    -W

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    Thanks for any help or advice... other than a large amount of
    explosives to put it out of my misery.

    -W
     
    Woogeroo, Dec 13, 2005
    #1
  2. Woogeroo

    Oppie Guest

    Sometimes you get lucky and it is only a hose clamp that needs to be
    tightened. Many of the original clamps are single use and crimped in place.
    You have to cut those off (the band not the rubber) and replace with an
    adjustable one from the parts store. First place to check is hose
    connections, then hoses themselves. Also check the water pump seal for
    leaks.
    Once you've got fluids all over the outside of the engine, makes finding
    leaks difficult. Sometimes the easiest way (short of adding a UV dye to the
    coolant) is to wash down the engine with hot soapy water (steam clean?) and
    wait for it to dry before running the motor. Much easier to find a leak on a
    clean field. Helps too if you are doing this in a warm climate instead of
    the miserable northeast where I am now.

    Brakes - Some cars with ABS brakes need a tool to cycle the ABS and remove
    trapped air. Others can be bled like conventional systems. I've heard that
    with ABS you can bleed the system, go and make a hard stop so the ABS
    engages and then bleed again. Pain in the tail. My L300 does not need any
    tool to bleed.
    Make sure that the resevior is full and start with the right rear wheel.
    Open the bleed port and attach a short clear hose to it. put the open end of
    the hose in a bottle with a bit of brake fluid at the bottom. have a friend
    pump the brakes slowly and watch the fluid come out. While the brake is
    still down, close the bleed port or pinch the hose. let the brake up, open
    or release the hose and push the brake down again. repeat until you get
    clean fluid out and no bubbles. Close the bleed port and repeat for left
    rear, right front and left front. Be sure that you keep the reservoir filled
    or you'll be starting over.

    Oppie
     
    Oppie, Dec 14, 2005
    #2
  3. More than likely your intake manifold gasket. From under the car, take a
    flashlight and look up at the intake manifold, you should find your leak.
    It is usually towards the drivers side of the vehicle. Hope it helps.
     
    TheLastDonSC2, Dec 28, 2005
    #3
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