07 Vue (V6) Ignition Switch Problem

I've been having a problem with my VUE ignition switch. I sometimes
cannot turn the key or it will only turn part way. When I turn the
ignition off it is sometimes difficult to remove the key. A local
dealer suggested WD40. This worked for a while but the problem
quickly returned. I tried the spare key with the same results. He
claimed that this was a common problem with the 07 Vue.

Does anyone have a solution or is replacing the ignition switch key
assembly the only fix? If so, is this an expensive repair?

Howard

 

Go buy a tube of graphite based lock lube. The WD-40 did a great job of
cleaning out the gunk, but it also cleaned out any lubricant (WD-40 is a
short lifetime lube).

Steve

 

I second the graphite lube and the fact the WD-40 cleaned it up. It got
it ready for the graphite. Just keep a rag handy to wipe your key with
when you take it out of the ignition for the first few days.

 

I second the graphite lube and the fact the WD-40 cleaned it up. It got
it ready for the graphite. Just keep a rag handy to wipe your key with
when you take it out of the ignition for the first few days.

 

I generally find WD-40 useless. As a penetrating fluid, others are far
better (I use Kroil from KanoLabs.com). For lubicants, WD-40 leaves little
or nothing of a film behind. After a day or so, there is no lubrication
left.

Graphite lube is the traditional fix but it tends to be very messy. If you
do use it, do so sparingly. A better choice is some of the 'dry film'
lubricants that leave a dry film of Teflon after the solvent vehicle
evaporates. Again, use this sparingly but it won't leave a mess like
graphite. Sometimes you can get away with putting a light film of grease on
your key and inserting it into the lock a few times. All depends where in
the lock it is sticking.

Don't ignore if this is an automatic transmission, there is a cable from the
shifter to the key lock. The key can only be removed in Park. The cable
might be binding or need some adjustment.

Oppie
<2001 lw300>

 

Thanks for your responses!

Removing the key has not been a problem so far. It simply will not
turn once I insert it. It almost feels like I inserted the wrong
key. Sometimes it turns to the ACC position and binds again.

I tried some Teflon spray lube and I will let everyone know how it
works out.

I don't want to take it in for service since the local Chevy dealer
has been designated at the "Official" Saturn replacement dealer in
this area. My worst nightmare since I bought my Saturn was that
Saturn would go out of business and that I would have to take my car
to a Chevy dealer for service!!! My father and brother have bought
nothing buy Chevy cars and both have had nothing but trouble from
their service folks.

Howard

 

That's because WD-40 is not a lube...It's a Water Displacement formula
(hence the WD). It's primarily meant to displace moisture build up and
works great if you ever drive your car through water too deep or
something....Spray it on Spark Plugs, Wires, etc...Used to spray it in
the Distributer Cap (when they used them) when water got in there..

BUT it does work as a side benefit to loosen up stuck things for a VERY
short time. I second (or third) the Graphite lube solution below...

 

I forgot to mention the basic issue of the steering wheel being held against
the lock pin.

If the key is not turning properly and the steering wheel is in the locked
position, turn the wheel slightly to get it off the lock pin and *then* try
turning the key. Happens to me sometimes in the lw300.

 

Hi ,Howard!

Do you have a reason to think that you might be limited to the Chevy
dealer? As far as I know, most GM auto dealers' service shops should be able
to handle most any GM car. Also, different Chevy dealers can have far
different customer service results ... my two experiences with Chevy dealers
(one in Detroit, one in the Cleveland area) were both very positive,
overall, although a very long time ago.

 

Steve,

GM has designated several (4?) dealers in this area as official Saturn
repair facilities. The Chevy dealer is the most convenient. Another
one is a local GM/Buick dealer which is difficult to reach, especially
early in the morning during rush hours. The designated dealers are
supposed to have trained mechanics, documentation and parts
available. I wonder how many of GM designated Saturn repair
facilities mechanics have worked on Honda engines or transmissions?

I was lucky that lubing the lock worked because it took eight days to
get an appointment with the Chevy dealer and then they did not have
the Saturn lock in stock! They confirmed that the lube worked and
asked me to let them know if it starts acting up again and they will
order the parts before I bring the car in for repair.

You are correct in that I should not condemn all dealers just because
of my family's s bad experiences with a few of them. I guess I've
been spoiled the last ten years by my local Saturn dealer. I bought
three cars form them and had all of them serviced there with almost
zero problems. I had one small dispute with a repair done on my 99
SW2 which was resolved two days later. Not a bad record for eleven
years!

My brother on the other had just had a $800+ bill for new brakes on
his three year old Impala at 24,000 miles and was told that it will
happen again as GM not no longer has access to decent disks.
According to them all brake disks used in GM cars are now made in
China and are subject to rusting and pitting.

Howard