07 ION 3?

Hi all, I just leased an 07 ION 3 (wife has an 06) and was wondering at what
mileage the 1st oil/filter change should be? I plan on using Mobile 1 like
the wife's.

Thanks.

 

1st oil change do at 3K just to be on the safe side. Afterwards, consider 5K
intervals even if using Mobil1.
Thats what I am doing on my '07 ION.3 too.

 

OK thanks. You using OnStar?

 

The proper method for break in would be...

Note: Keep the rpm's low for the first 500.

Start with Conventional Oil. (Factory fill varies.)

At 500 - Change Oil & Filter
At 3000 - Change Oil & Filter
At 6000 - Change Oil & Filter (You may switch to Synthetic now.)
At 9000 - Change Oil & Filter (Synthetic for certain.)

Now use 4000 mile max intervals for the sake of the filter, not the oil.

 

I have an 07 ION 2 and asked the same question to the service mgr at my
local Saturn dealer, this past week.
They said that the 1st oil change should be done when "oil change" light
comes on. Even if it is around 12-14,000 kms.
I had 10,6XX kms and asked if it was ok to do an oil change right away and
put Mobil 1. Answer was yes and I did it.
Long gone are the days when the 1st oil change was be done after only a few
hundred miles. Materials used to build engines are so superior nowadays that
it is not necessary anymore. So they say.

 

The manual states there is synthetic in there from the factory.

 

I agree. If you switch to synthetic oil too soon it will take longer to
break-in your engine. I have been using Mobile-1 5W30 in my Dodge
Stratus since 36000 miles (due to warranty) and change the oil and
filter every 10,000. It now has over 138,000 miles, still runs great and
gets me over 31 MPG on the highway (being a former certified mechanic I
believe in taking good car of my cars). I blew an engine on Amzoil years
ago and wouldn't recommend that garbage to an enemy.

Gyz

--
Gyz

07 Saturn Sky 2.4L I4 AT
98 Dodge Status ES 2.5L V6 AutoStick
94 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Turbo 2.0L I4 FWD MT

 

I agree. If you switch to synthetic oil too soon it will take longer to

Sorry sir, synthetic oil doesn't cause an engine to blow. There was an
unknown problem there already
that eventually surfaced because the oil cleaned the engine.
Many people have believed what you believe but we know netter today because
of research and because we understand synthetic oil better.

 

Do you mean the ION 3 or all IONs?
I only have browsed through the book a couple of times but I didn't know
this bit of info.
Thanks.

 

Both my wifes 06 Ion3 and my 07 Ion3 manual states that syn is in from the
factory.

 

I am using OnStar, matter of fact for the $80. a month I pay just to have a
cell in the car, I am going back to pre-paid when my Cingular
extor..er...contract ends and with the savings I can keep OnStar in the car
hopefully if they don't raise their rates again before then. Man, OnStar is
nice but they are getting too out of price range for most ppl to keep it
beyond the free 1yr.

BTW - 5K is an estimated guess on most mechanics as to when the OIL Life
light will come on at least, so I figure that using the same guidelines as
my old 1.9L and every other car I have driven, even though using synth oil,
change the oil at or near when the mfg. suggested intervals are and you will
have a life-strong engine.

 

Really? I couldn't find it in my '07 ION.3 manual either. Could you please
tell me what page states that there is synthetic oil from the factory in
IONs ? TIA

 

OK, here it is, on page 287 of the '07 ION Owners Manual,

"Your vehicle's engine is filled at the factory with a synthetic oil which
meets all requirements for your vehicle."

Interesting as only the 2.4L and 2.0 require synth oil afterwards. However,
most manufacturers DO place synth from the factory for the break in period
at the factory, ex: Nissan.

Thanks for that bit o info BE, good catch, I gotta RTFM some more

 

OK, <wiping egg from face>

Again, I (we) need to RTFM more carefully!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Ahem, BE, and
me...)

Page 287 says that the engine has synth from the factory, er.... duh.... pg
286 says specifically "For Vehicles with the 2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine
Only."

 

Got it...

 

I agree with you Bassplayer12. The engine had 36,000 miles on it since a
rebuild before I switched to Amzoil. Three months later #5 main bearing
failed and took the #4 rod bearing with it. It survived 36,000 miles
with its flaw on conventional oil. I feel it would have continued to run
if I would have used Mobil1 instead of Amzoil.

--
Gyz

07 Saturn Sky
98 Dodge Status ES
94 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

 

It was explained to me (admittedly long ago and by a service station employee in whose interest it was to get people
to change oil) that the machining done on the engine in the factory leaves small pieces of debris, so an oil change very
early in the engine's life is a worthwhile investment.
Since the cost of an oil change is so minimal compared to the damage done if oil changes are too infrequent, I would
go for erring on the side of too frequent oil changes rather than too few.

 

As someone who works in the manufacturing field designing gearboxes, I can
tell you part of what you say is true, the other I don't agree with
completely...

Parts, esp. those with tight tolerances, are thoroughly cleaned (usually in
baths) after manufacturing/machining so chances of debris sitting in the
engine after machining are very low. However, what does happen is that as
the parts are "run in", they will shed very fine particles. I work in
aerospace, and not automotive, but I would assume they do the same as us and
do a limited run-in of assemblies and/or components at the factory.
However, even with all the advancements in engineering, manufacturing, oil,
etc, etc., the final product does not see real life conditions until it gets
to you. Several components like the drivetrain for example, are mixed and
matched to different engines, tranny's and rears/diffs, put in different
configurations and vehicles, operate under different loads, environments,
etc. that are not simulated in the limited run in of a production unit
(prototypes are a different animal altogether), so I do thoroughly agree
with you that a early fluid change or two is a worth the investment after
you've run-in the whole assembly (vehicle), in your environment (driving
habits, terrain, load, temps, etc...)

IYM

 

There is no such thing as a "break-in period" with synthetic.
Parts must wear and seat themselves.
Synthetic greatly hinders that process.
A car properly broke in on conventional oil will obtain maximum cylinder
compression much much sooner.
An engine that starts off with synthetic may never seal properly.